Bhanjpur, Mayurbhanj, Baripada (757001), Odisha, India
The imposing red brick façade of the Baripada Palace, shimmering under the Odisha sun, immediately captured my attention. Having explored countless caves and temples across Maharashtra, I’ve developed a keen eye for architectural nuances, and this palace, a blend of classical and later architectural styles, promised a fascinating delve into Odisha's royal history. Located in the heart of Baripada, the former capital of the princely state of Mayurbhanj, the palace complex sprawls across a significant area, a testament to the power and influence the Bhanja dynasty once wielded.
Stepping through the arched gateway felt like crossing a threshold into another era. The sprawling courtyard, now partially overgrown with grass, whispered stories of bustling activity, royal processions, and courtly intrigue. The main palace building, a two-storied structure with a prominent central bay, displays a distinct colonial influence. The arched windows, framed by intricate stucco work, and the decorative balustrades adorning the balconies spoke of a period when European architectural styles were being adopted and adapted by Indian royalty.
I was particularly drawn to the intricate terracotta work that embellished sections of the palace walls. Unlike the stone carvings I’m accustomed to seeing in Maharashtra’s temples, this terracotta art added a unique textural dimension to the palace façade. The depictions of floral motifs, mythological figures, and scenes from daily life offered a glimpse into the artistic sensibilities of the time. The vibrant colours, though faded with age, still hinted at the grandeur that once characterized this royal residence.
Inside, the palace is a labyrinth of interconnected rooms and corridors. While some sections are well-maintained, showcasing period furniture, portraits of the Bhanja rulers, and displays of royal artifacts, others bear the marks of time and neglect. Peeling paint, crumbling plaster, and dust-laden chandeliers evoke a sense of melancholy, a reminder of the transient nature of power and glory. I spent a considerable amount of time in the Durbar Hall, imagining the opulent gatherings and ceremonies that would have taken place within its walls. The high ceilings, ornate chandeliers, and remnants of intricate wall paintings hinted at the lavish lifestyle of the erstwhile rulers.
One of the most captivating aspects of the Baripada Palace is its integration with the surrounding landscape. The palace gardens, though now somewhat overgrown, still retain a sense of tranquility. I wandered through the pathways, admiring the ancient trees and imagining the manicured lawns and vibrant flowerbeds that would have once graced this space. A small pond, located at the edge of the gardens, added to the serene atmosphere.
My exploration extended beyond the main palace building to the surrounding structures, including the royal stables and the armory. The stables, though now empty, still bore the marks of their former occupants. The armory, housing a collection of weapons and armor, provided a fascinating insight into the military history of the region. The craftsmanship of the swords, shields, and other weaponry was truly remarkable.
Leaving the Baripada Palace, I felt a sense of both awe and melancholy. Awe at the architectural splendor and historical significance of the site, and melancholy at the inevitable decay that time inflicts on even the grandest of structures. The palace stands as a poignant reminder of a bygone era, a testament to the rise and fall of dynasties, and a window into the rich cultural heritage of Odisha. It is a place that deserves to be cherished and preserved for future generations, offering a valuable glimpse into the lives and legacies of the Bhanja rulers.
New Colony Veng, Saiha, Saiha (796901), Mizoram, India
The air hung heavy with the scent of incense and marigolds, a familiar aroma that usually greets me at the thresholds of Maharashtra's countless temples. But here, nestled amidst the verdant Mizo hills in Saiha, the Kali Mandir presented a unique tapestry of familiarity and novelty. Having explored every nook and cranny of Maharashtra's cave temples and ornate shrines, I arrived in Mizoram with a seasoned eye, eager to witness how faith manifests itself in this easternmost corner of India.
The temple, perched on a small hillock overlooking the town, commands attention. Unlike the basalt structures or intricately carved wooden temples I'm accustomed to back home, this Kali Mandir is a relatively modern construction, primarily of concrete. Its bright orange facade, accented with white and a touch of blue, stands in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery. The architecture, while simpler than the elaborate Dravidian or Hemadpanti styles I'm familiar with, possesses a certain charm. It’s a blend of traditional North Indian temple architecture with a local Mizo touch, evident in the sloping roof that echoes the region's vernacular architecture.
A flight of concrete steps, flanked by brightly painted railings, led me to the main entrance. The doorway, framed by a concrete arch, was adorned with images of deities and auspicious symbols. Stepping inside, I was struck by the temple's intimate atmosphere. The sanctum sanctorum, bathed in the soft glow of oil lamps, housed the imposing black idol of Goddess Kali. Her fierce countenance, adorned with a garland of marigolds and hibiscus, exuded power and reverence. The familiar chanting of Sanskrit mantras, though with a slightly different intonation, filled the air, creating a bridge between this remote location and the temples of my homeland.
What intrigued me most was the confluence of cultures within the temple's precincts. While the deity and rituals were distinctly Hindu, the devotees reflected the diversity of Mizoram. Alongside the Hindu Bengalis who originally established the temple, I saw Mizo locals offering prayers, their faces etched with devotion. This intermingling of faiths and traditions painted a vibrant picture of India's syncretic culture, a testament to the unifying power of belief.
The temple courtyard, though smaller than the sprawling temple complexes I’ve seen in Maharashtra, offered a panoramic view of Saiha town. The rolling hills, dotted with houses and churches, created a picturesque backdrop. I spent some time observing the devotees, their quiet reverence a stark contrast to the often boisterous temple festivals back home. There was a sense of peaceful coexistence here, a harmonious blend of different faiths and traditions.
As I descended the steps, leaving the scent of incense behind, I reflected on the journey. The Kali Mandir in Saiha, while architecturally different from the temples I'm accustomed to, resonated with the same spiritual energy. It served as a powerful reminder that faith transcends geographical boundaries and architectural styles. It's a testament to the human need for connection with the divine, a need that finds expression in diverse and beautiful ways across the length and breadth of India. My journey through Maharashtra's caves and temples had prepared me to appreciate the nuances of this remote shrine, to see beyond the concrete and the unfamiliar chants and recognize the universal language of devotion that binds us all.
Palace Road, Bengaluru, Bengaluru (560052), Karnataka, India
The imposing Tudor-style edifice of Bangalore Palace, rising amidst the urban sprawl of Bengaluru, transports you to a bygone era of princely grandeur. Having explored every UNESCO site in India, I can confidently say that while not a World Heritage site itself, the Palace holds a unique charm, echoing the opulence of Windsor Castle, its acknowledged inspiration.
My first impression was one of awe. The granite facade, punctuated by fortified towers, crenellated parapets, and ornate arches, exudes a sense of regal authority. Stepping through the imposing wooden gates felt like crossing a threshold into history. The sprawling grounds, a welcome respite from the city's hustle, offer a glimpse into the lifestyle of the erstwhile Wodeyar dynasty.
Inside, the palace unfolds a narrative of history and art. The Durbar Hall, with its intricate stained-glass windows depicting scenes from Indian mythology and its ornate chandeliers, is a testament to the craftsmanship of a bygone era. The walls are adorned with a fascinating collection of photographs – sepia-toned glimpses into royal processions, hunting expeditions, and family portraits, each whispering stories of a life lived in the spotlight. I was particularly captivated by a photograph showcasing the Maharaja’s impressive collection of vintage cars, a testament to his modern sensibilities.
The open courtyard, surrounded by arched corridors, offers a tranquil space. I could almost envision the bustling activity that must have once filled this area – the clatter of horses' hooves, the murmur of courtiers, and the strains of traditional music. The intricate carvings on the wooden columns and balconies, a blend of Victorian and Edwardian styles, are a feast for the eyes. I spent a considerable amount of time examining the detailed floral motifs and the depictions of mythical creatures, each a testament to the skill of the artisans.
Ascending the grand staircase, I reached the upper floors, where the private quarters of the royal family are located. The bedrooms, furnished with period furniture, offer a glimpse into their personal lives. The delicate lace curtains, the ornate dressing tables, and the four-poster beds evoke a sense of nostalgia and romance. One room, dedicated to showcasing the royal family's collection of weaponry, held my attention. From gleaming swords and daggers to antique rifles, the collection spoke volumes about the martial traditions of the Wodeyars.
Beyond the opulence and grandeur, what struck me most was the palpable sense of history that permeates every corner of the palace. It's not just a collection of artifacts; it's a living testament to a dynasty that shaped the history of Bengaluru. Standing in the King’s balcony, overlooking the sprawling city, I could almost imagine the Maharaja surveying his domain.
However, my experience wasn't without its observations. While the palace is undoubtedly a treasure trove of history and art, certain areas showed signs of neglect. Some of the exhibits could benefit from more detailed descriptions, and the lighting in certain sections could be improved to better showcase the intricate details of the artwork and architecture. A more interactive experience, perhaps incorporating audio-visual elements or guided tours that delve deeper into the history of the palace and the Wodeyar dynasty, would significantly enhance the visitor experience.
Despite these minor shortcomings, Bangalore Palace remains a captivating destination. It offers a unique blend of architectural splendor, historical significance, and personal insights into the lives of the royals. For anyone seeking a glimpse into India's rich princely past, a visit to Bangalore Palace is an absolute must. It stands as a proud reminder of a bygone era, offering a captivating contrast to the modern metropolis that surrounds it. My journey through India’s UNESCO sites has given me a deep appreciation for the country’s diverse heritage, and Bangalore Palace, while not on that official list, certainly holds its own as a testament to India’s regal past.
Parasnath Hills, Giridih (815351), Jharkhand, India
The climb to Pahari Mandir, perched atop Ranchi Hill, is a pilgrimage in itself. The sun beat down on my back as I ascended the seemingly endless flight of stairs, each step bringing me closer to the whispers of history that clung to the ancient stones. The city sprawled beneath me, a tapestry of terracotta roofs and verdant green, shrinking with every upward stride. This vantage point, I realized, was as much a part of the temple's allure as the structure itself. It felt as though the builders had intentionally chosen this lofty perch, not just for its breathtaking views, but to symbolize a closer communion with the divine.
Reaching the summit, I was greeted by a palpable shift in atmosphere. The cacophony of the city faded, replaced by the gentle tinkling of bells and the murmur of devotees. Pahari Mandir, dedicated to Lord Shiva, isn't a sprawling complex like many other ancient temples. Its beauty lies in its compact elegance, a stark white structure against the azure sky. The architecture, while simple, is striking. The temple's shikhara, the towering structure above the sanctum sanctorum, is distinctly different from the curvilinear Nagara style prevalent in my home state of Madhya Pradesh. Here, the shikhara rises in a pyramidal form, reminiscent of the local architectural vernacular, yet possessing a unique grace.
The whitewashed walls, though showing the patina of time, are adorned with intricate carvings. I spent a considerable amount of time documenting these, my lens focusing on the delicate floral motifs and depictions of deities, each panel narrating a silent story. The craftsmanship, though weathered by centuries of sun and rain, still speaks volumes about the devotion and skill of the artisans who breathed life into these stones. Interestingly, while the temple is predominantly built of stone, I noticed the use of bricks in certain sections, particularly in the lower portions of the structure. This blend of materials, perhaps dictated by the locally available resources, adds another layer of intrigue to the temple's architectural narrative.
The inner sanctum, dimly lit by oil lamps, exuded an aura of serenity. The air was thick with the scent of incense and the murmur of prayers. Photography within the sanctum is restricted, so I committed the scene to memory, the flickering lamps casting dancing shadows on the ancient walls, the devout offering their prayers with quiet reverence. It was a moment of profound stillness, a stark contrast to the bustling city below.
Stepping out, I circumnavigated the temple, observing the interplay of light and shadow on the textured walls. The late afternoon sun cast long shadows, accentuating the carvings and adding a dramatic dimension to my photographs. From this vantage point, I could see the sprawling city of Ranchi in all its vibrant chaos, a stark juxtaposition to the serene sanctity of the temple. It was a visual reminder of the temple's role as a spiritual anchor, a place of refuge from the trials and tribulations of daily life.
My experience at Pahari Mandir was more than just a photographic documentation of an ancient site. It was a journey through time, a communion with history and faith. The temple, in its quiet dignity, stands as a testament to the enduring power of belief and the artistic brilliance of a bygone era. It's a place where the whispers of the past resonate with the present, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of India's cultural heritage. As I descended the steps, leaving the serenity of the hilltop behind, I carried with me not just photographs, but a profound sense of connection to this sacred space.
Sringeri, Chikkamagaluru, Sringeri (577139), Karnataka, India
The Sharadamba Temple at Sringeri, nestled within the verdant embrace of the Western Ghats, exudes an aura of timeless serenity. The temple, dedicated to the goddess of learning, Sharada, isn't just a structure of stone and wood; it's a living testament to centuries of devotion and scholarship. My recent visit, as a heritage photographer from Madhya Pradesh, felt less like a documentation and more like a pilgrimage.
The current temple, rebuilt in the 1910s after a fire, retains the essence of the original structure envisioned by Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century. While the earlier structure was primarily wooden, the present temple incorporates Hoysala and Dravidian architectural elements, creating a unique blend of styles. The towering gopuram, though a later addition, commands attention with its intricate carvings of deities and mythical creatures. It acts as a vibrant gateway to the serene courtyard within.
Stepping inside, I was immediately drawn to the Vidyashankara Temple, a 14th-century marvel dedicated to Lord Shiva. This architectural gem, built during the Vijayanagara period, stands on a raised platform with intricately carved granite pillars depicting various incarnations of Vishnu. The fusion of Hoysala and Dravidian styles is particularly evident here, with the ornate pillars and detailed friezes showcasing a remarkable level of craftsmanship. I spent hours photographing the intricate details – the delicate floral patterns, the expressive figures of gods and goddesses, and the mesmerizing geometric designs. The play of light and shadow on the stone surfaces added another layer of depth to the visual narrative.
The main shrine of Sharadamba, however, is the heart of the temple complex. The goddess, seated gracefully on a golden throne, radiates an aura of profound peace and wisdom. The sandalwood idol, adorned with exquisite jewellery, is a masterpiece of devotional art. Unlike the imposing grandeur of the Vidyashankara Temple, the Sharadamba shrine exudes a quiet elegance. The focus remains firmly on the goddess, inviting contemplation and introspection. I found myself captivated by the simplicity and purity of the space, a stark contrast to the ornate surroundings.
The temple complex also houses a library, a testament to Sringeri's historical significance as a center of learning. While I couldn't access the ancient texts, the very presence of this library underscored the temple's role in preserving and propagating knowledge. The atmosphere within the complex was charged with a palpable sense of devotion and scholarship, a feeling that permeated every corner, from the bustling courtyard to the quiet corners of the library.
One of the most striking aspects of the Sringeri Sharadamba Temple is its seamless integration with the surrounding landscape. The Tunga River, flowing gently beside the temple, adds to the tranquil atmosphere. I spent some time by the riverbank, observing the devotees performing rituals and taking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. The natural beauty of the location enhances the spiritual significance of the temple, creating a harmonious blend of the divine and the earthly.
My experience at Sringeri wasn't just about capturing images; it was about immersing myself in the rich history and spiritual significance of the place. The temple isn't merely a static monument; it's a vibrant hub of religious and cultural activity. The chanting of Vedic hymns, the fragrance of incense, and the constant flow of devotees created a dynamic atmosphere that was both captivating and humbling. As a heritage photographer, I felt privileged to witness and document this living heritage, a testament to the enduring power of faith and tradition. The images I captured, I hope, will convey not just the architectural beauty of the temple, but also the profound spiritual experience it offers.
Kamalasagar, Sepahijala, Bishalgarh (799102), Tripura, India
The midday sun beat down on the shimmering waters of Kamalasagar, reflecting the vibrant hues of the temple dedicated to Goddess Kali that stood proudly on its western bank. This wasn't just another stop on my exhaustive journey to document every UNESCO site in India; Kasba Kali Bari, as it's locally known, held a different energy, a palpable sense of devotion that resonated deeply. Located in Tripura, a state often overlooked on the tourist trail, this temple proved to be a hidden gem.
The first thing that struck me was the temple's unique location. Perched on a small hillock overlooking the lake created by Maharaja Dhanya Manikya in the 15th century, it commands a breathtaking view. The serene expanse of water, dotted with occasional boats, provided a tranquil backdrop to the vibrant energy of the temple complex. The air, thick with the scent of incense and marigold garlands, buzzed with the murmur of prayers and the rhythmic clang of temple bells.
The architecture of Kasba Kali Bari is a fascinating blend of traditional Bengali and Mughal styles. The temple itself is relatively small, a double-storied structure built of brick and plastered with lime. The lower level houses the sanctum sanctorum where the deity resides, while the upper level serves as a space for devotees to gather and offer prayers. What sets it apart are the intricate terracotta panels that adorn the outer walls. These panels, though weathered by time and the elements, still depict scenes from Hindu mythology, showcasing remarkable craftsmanship. I spent a considerable amount of time examining these panels, tracing the stories they told with my fingers, marveling at the detail preserved despite the centuries.
Inside the sanctum, the atmosphere was charged with devotion. The idol of Goddess Kali, depicted in her fierce form with a garland of skulls and a protruding tongue, is mesmerizing. Unlike some larger, more opulent temples, the intimacy of this space allows for a more personal connection with the divine. I witnessed devotees from all walks of life offering prayers, their faces etched with reverence and hope. The rhythmic chanting of mantras, the fragrance of incense, and the flickering lamps created an almost hypnotic atmosphere.
Beyond the main temple, the complex includes several smaller shrines dedicated to other deities. I noticed a small shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, tucked away in a quiet corner, and another dedicated to Lord Hanuman. These smaller shrines, though less elaborate, added to the overall spiritual ambiance of the place.
My visit to Kamalasagar Kali Temple wasn't just about ticking off another UNESCO site on my list. It was an immersive experience that allowed me to witness the living heritage of Tripura. It was a reminder that sometimes, the most profound experiences are found not in grand monuments, but in smaller, less-traveled places where faith and tradition continue to thrive. The serenity of the lake, the vibrant energy of the temple, and the palpable devotion of the devotees created an unforgettable experience. As I left the temple grounds, the image of the fierce yet benevolent Goddess Kali, reflected in the still waters of the lake, stayed etched in my mind, a testament to the enduring power of faith and the beauty of India's diverse cultural tapestry. This is a site that deserves more recognition, a place where one can connect with the spiritual heart of India.
Battala, West Tripura, Agartala (799001), Tripura, India
The air hung heavy with the scent of incense and marigold garlands as I stepped into the courtyard of the Battala Mahadev Temple. The midday sun, fierce even in late autumn, glinted off the whitewashed walls, creating an almost blinding contrast against the deep green of the surrounding trees. Located in Battala, a seemingly unremarkable corner of West Tripura, this temple resonated with a quiet power, a palpable sense of history that whispered from every brick and carving.
My journey to this temple was prompted by a fascination with the lesser-known religious sites of India, particularly those that bear the imprint of syncretic traditions. Tripura, with its unique blend of tribal and Bengali cultures, promised such discoveries, and Battala Mahadev didn’t disappoint. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, displayed a distinct architectural style that deviated from the typical North Indian Nagara style I was familiar with from Uttar Pradesh. The structure, while relatively small, possessed a certain solidity, its square base rising to a curved shikhara, reminiscent of the Bengali chala style, but with a distinct Tripuri flavour. The whitewashed exterior, devoid of elaborate ornamentation, gave it an austere, almost minimalist appearance, a stark contrast to the vibrant colours and intricate carvings that adorn temples in my home state.
A narrow flight of stairs led to the main sanctum. As I ascended, I noticed the worn smoothness of the stone steps, a testament to the countless devotees who had trod this path over the centuries. The sanctum itself was dimly lit, the only source of illumination being the flickering oil lamps and the sunlight filtering through the doorway. Inside, a simple Shiva lingam stood as the focal point, its dark, polished surface reflecting the dancing flames. The air within the sanctum was thick with the fragrance of incense and the murmurings of prayers. A pujari, his forehead smeared with vibhuti, performed the rituals with a quiet reverence, his movements echoing the timeless rhythm of worship.
What struck me most about Battala Mahadev was its unassuming nature. Unlike the grand temples of Varanasi or Mathura, which draw throngs of pilgrims and tourists, this temple felt intimate, almost personal. There were a few local devotees present, their faces etched with devotion, but the atmosphere was far from the bustling chaos I’d come to associate with religious sites. This quietude allowed for a deeper connection, a more profound sense of contemplation.
As I explored the temple grounds, I noticed several smaller shrines dedicated to other deities, tucked away in the corners of the courtyard. This amalgamation of deities, a common feature in many Tripuri temples, spoke volumes about the region’s syncretic religious landscape. The presence of these subsidiary shrines suggested a blending of beliefs, an acceptance of diverse spiritual paths, a characteristic that resonated deeply with me.
The temple’s location, nestled amidst lush greenery, further enhanced its tranquil atmosphere. The sounds of nature – the chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves – mingled with the faint chants from the sanctum, creating a symphony of serenity. It was easy to see why this place had become a sanctuary for the local community, a place to seek solace and connect with the divine.
My visit to Battala Mahadev Temple was more than just a journalistic assignment; it was a spiritual experience. It offered a glimpse into the rich tapestry of religious traditions that weave through the fabric of India, a reminder that spirituality can manifest in diverse and unexpected ways. The temple’s unassuming grandeur, its quiet power, and its harmonious blend of nature and devotion left an indelible mark on my mind, a testament to the enduring power of faith in the heart of rural Tripura. It served as a poignant reminder that sometimes, the most profound spiritual experiences are found not in the grandest of structures, but in the quiet corners of the world, where faith blossoms in simplicity and serenity.
Daarukavanam, Devbhoomi Dwarka, Dwarka (361335), Gujarat, India
The Gujarat sun beat down, casting long shadows across the sprawling complex of the Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple. Located in Daarukavanam, near the fabled city of Dwarka, this temple pulsates with a palpable energy, a hum of devotion that resonates through the very stones. It’s not just another temple; it’s a testament to faith, a vibrant tapestry woven with mythology, history, and architectural brilliance.
My lens, accustomed to capturing the grandeur of India's heritage, found itself constantly drawn to new details. The towering, freshly painted Shikhara, adorned with intricate carvings, dominated the skyline. Its vibrant hues, a stark contrast against the clear blue sky, seemed to amplify the sacredness of the space. Unlike some ancient temples weathered by time, Nageshwar retains a vividness, a sense of renewal that speaks to the continuous devotion it receives.
As I moved closer, the sheer scale of the Nandi statue became apparent. It’s colossal, a magnificent sculpture guarding the entrance to the main shrine. The meticulous detailing on the Nandi, from the folds of its skin to the expression on its face, showcases the sculptor's mastery. I spent a considerable amount of time circling it, capturing its imposing presence from various angles. The play of light and shadow on its polished black surface added another layer of depth to the photographs.
Stepping inside the main sanctum, I was enveloped by a sense of tranquility. The air was thick with the scent of incense and the murmur of prayers. The Jyotirlinga, the symbolic representation of Lord Shiva, resides within the garbhagriha, radiating a powerful spiritual aura. Photography isn't permitted inside the inner sanctum, which, in a way, enhances the mystique. It allows the experience to become more personal, more introspective. You’re forced to engage with the space, to absorb the energy, rather than simply capturing an image.
The temple complex is remarkably well-maintained. The marble flooring, polished to a gleam, reflects the vibrant colours of the devotees' attire. I observed families performing rituals, their faces etched with devotion. The atmosphere was charged with a collective sense of faith, a shared spiritual experience that transcended language and background. It wasn't just a religious site; it was a living, breathing testament to the enduring power of belief.
The surrounding gardens, a welcome respite from the sun's intensity, added to the temple's charm. The meticulous landscaping, with its vibrant flowers and manicured lawns, provided a tranquil setting for contemplation. I noticed several devotees sitting quietly amidst the greenery, lost in prayer or simply absorbing the peaceful atmosphere.
One aspect that particularly struck me was the seamless blend of the old and the new. While the core temple structure exudes ancient wisdom and architectural heritage, the surrounding facilities, including the restrooms and the prasadam counters, are modern and well-maintained. This delicate balance ensures that the temple remains accessible and comfortable for visitors while preserving its historical and spiritual significance.
My time at Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple was more than just a photographic assignment; it was a spiritual journey. It was a chance to witness the unwavering faith of the devotees, to marvel at the architectural brilliance of the temple, and to capture the essence of a sacred space that has resonated with pilgrims for centuries. As I packed my equipment, I knew that the images I captured were more than just photographs; they were fragments of a vibrant spiritual tapestry, a testament to the enduring power of faith in the heart of India.
The air, thick with the scent of jasmine and incense, vibrated with a low hum of chanting as I stepped into the Mahalaxmi Temple courtyard at Bandora. Having explored countless caves and temples across Maharashtra, I’ve developed a keen eye for the nuances of sacred architecture, and this Goan temple, dedicated to the Goddess of Wealth, immediately struck me with its distinct character. Unlike the basalt structures I’m accustomed to in my home state, this temple, nestled amidst lush greenery, was built from laterite stone, lending it a warm, reddish-orange hue.
The main entrance, a modest gateway adorned with simple carvings, belied the grandeur within. Passing through, I found myself in a spacious courtyard paved with smooth, worn stones. The temple itself, a two-tiered structure, dominated the space. The lower level, simpler in design, housed smaller shrines and functional areas. My attention, however, was immediately drawn upwards to the elaborately carved wooden pillars and balconies that characterized the upper level. These intricate details, a blend of local Goan and influences possibly stemming from the temple's earlier location in Kolhapur, spoke volumes about the skilled artisans who had crafted them centuries ago.
The deep red of the laterite provided a striking backdrop for the vibrant colours of the deities and the offerings laid before them. The main sanctum, housing the idol of Mahalaxmi, exuded a palpable sense of reverence. The Goddess, depicted in her four-armed form, radiated a serene power. Unlike the often fierce depictions of Mahalakshmi I’ve encountered elsewhere, this idol possessed a gentle, almost maternal aura. It's a subtle difference, but one that speaks to the unique character of this particular shrine.
I spent a considerable amount of time observing the devotees. While the temple attracts visitors from all over, the strong presence of local Goan families performing their rituals added a layer of authenticity that I deeply appreciated. The rhythmic clanging of bells, the murmur of prayers, and the fragrance of burning camphor created an immersive sensory experience that transported me far from the usual tourist trail.
One detail that particularly fascinated me was the presence of a Deepstambha, or lamp tower, within the courtyard. Standing tall and elegant, it was adorned with intricate carvings and small niches for oil lamps. While Deepstambhas are a common feature in many temples, this one seemed to possess a unique character, possibly influenced by the Portuguese colonial architecture that dots Goa. The subtle fusion of styles was a testament to the region's rich and layered history.
Climbing the steps to the upper level, I was rewarded with a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. The lush green paddy fields stretching out beyond the temple walls offered a tranquil contrast to the vibrant activity within the courtyard. The cool breeze rustling through the palm trees carried with it the distant sounds of village life, creating a sense of peaceful harmony.
As I descended the steps and prepared to leave, I noticed a small, almost hidden shrine tucked away in a corner of the courtyard. Intrigued, I approached and discovered it was dedicated to the Gramdevata, the local village deity. This small, unassuming shrine served as a powerful reminder of the deep connection between the temple and the community it serves. It’s these small, often overlooked details that truly enrich the experience of exploring a place like the Mahalaxmi Temple.
Leaving the temple grounds, I carried with me not just photographs and memories, but a deeper understanding of the rich cultural tapestry of Goa. The Mahalaxmi Temple at Bandora is more than just a place of worship; it's a living testament to the enduring power of faith, tradition, and the artistry of generations past. It’s a must-visit for anyone seeking a glimpse into the heart and soul of Goa.
Near Loi Bazaar, Mathura, Vrindavan (281121), Uttar Pradesh, India
The red sandstone glowed, almost humming with a palpable energy under the late afternoon sun. Govind Dev Temple in Vrindavan, though no longer in its complete glory, still exudes a majestic aura that transported me back to a Vrindavan of centuries past. Having documented Gujarat's intricate temples for years, I was eager to experience the architectural nuances of this Braj marvel, and I wasn't disappointed.
The first thing that struck me was the unique blend of architectural styles. While the temple’s core exhibits a distinctly Rajput influence, reminiscent of some of the grand structures I’ve seen in Rajasthan, the seven-storied structure (now sadly reduced to three) bore a striking resemblance to European architecture, particularly reminiscent of a cathedral. This fusion, I learned, was a result of the Mughal emperor Akbar's relatively tolerant religious policies during the late 16th century, a period that allowed for such cross-cultural architectural experimentation.
Stepping inside the pillared hall, which now serves as the main prayer area, I was immediately drawn upwards. The soaring ceilings, even in their truncated state, evoked a sense of grandeur. The intricate carvings on the remaining pillars, depicting scenes from Krishna's life, were a testament to the skill of the artisans. Each carving told a story, each curve and line imbued with devotion. I spent a considerable amount of time tracing these narratives with my fingers, imagining the temple in its original seven-storied splendor.
The absence of the upper four stories, destroyed by Aurangzeb in the 17th century, is a poignant reminder of the tumultuous history this temple has witnessed. Yet, the resilience of the structure and the continued devotion of the pilgrims who throng its courtyard speak volumes about its enduring spiritual significance. The air vibrated with chants and the fragrance of incense, creating an atmosphere thick with reverence.
The temple complex is built around a rectangular courtyard, and while the main shrine is dedicated to Govind Dev (Krishna), smaller shrines dedicated to Radha and other deities dot the periphery. I observed the local devotees engaging in various rituals, their faces reflecting a deep connection to the divine. The rhythmic clang of bells and the melodic chanting of hymns further intensified the spiritual ambiance.
The use of red sandstone, a material I'm intimately familiar with from Gujarat's architectural heritage, lends the temple a warm, earthy hue. However, unlike the intricate, almost lace-like carvings often seen in Gujarati temples, the carvings here are bolder, more pronounced, reflecting a different aesthetic sensibility. The interplay of light and shadow on the sandstone surfaces created a dynamic visual experience, constantly shifting throughout the day.
One particular detail that captivated me was the remnants of the original staircase that once led to the upper floors. Though now inaccessible, the sheer scale and craftsmanship of the remaining steps hinted at the lost magnificence of the complete structure. I could almost visualize the devotees ascending those stairs, their hearts filled with anticipation, to reach the inner sanctum.
Leaving the temple complex, I carried with me a profound sense of awe and a touch of melancholy. Awe at the architectural brilliance and spiritual energy that permeated the space, and melancholy for the lost grandeur of a structure that once touched the sky. Govind Dev Temple stands as a testament to the enduring power of faith and a poignant reminder of the fragility of our heritage. It is a site that deserves to be experienced, not just seen, and its story, etched in stone and whispered in chants, continues to resonate through the ages.
Sayyaji Rao Road, Mysuru, Mysore (570001), Karnataka, India
The Mysore Palace, or Amba Vilas Palace, isn't merely a structure; it's a statement. A statement of opulence, a testament to craftsmanship, and a living chronicle of a dynasty. As a Chennai native steeped in the Dravidian architectural idiom of South Indian temples, I found myself both captivated and challenged by the Indo-Saracenic style that defines this majestic palace. The blend of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput, and Gothic elements creates a unique architectural vocabulary, a departure from the gopurams and mandapas I'm accustomed to, yet equally mesmerizing.
My first impression was one of sheer scale. The sprawling palace grounds, meticulously manicured, prepare you for the grandeur within. The three-storied stone structure, with its grey granite base and deep pink marble domes, stands as a beacon against the Mysore sky. The central arch, adorned with intricate carvings and flanked by imposing towers, draws the eye upwards, culminating in the breathtaking five-story gopuram. This fusion, the gopuram atop an Indo-Saracenic structure, is a powerful symbol of the cultural confluence that shaped Mysore's history.
Stepping inside, I was immediately transported to a world of intricate detail. The Durbar Hall, with its ornate pillars, stained-glass ceilings, and intricately carved doorways, is a spectacle of craftsmanship. The pillars, far from being uniform, display a fascinating variety of designs, each a testament to the skill of the artisans. I noticed subtle variations in the floral motifs, the scrollwork, and even the miniature sculptures adorning the capitals. This attention to detail, reminiscent of the meticulous carvings found in Chola temples, spoke volumes about the dedication poured into this palace.
The Kalyanamantapa, the marriage hall, is another jewel in the palace's crown. The octagonal hall, with its vibrant stained-glass ceiling depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, is a riot of color and light. The floor, paved with exquisite mosaic tiles, adds another layer of intricacy. While the overall style is distinctly different from the mandapas found in South Indian temples, I could appreciate the shared emphasis on creating a sacred, visually stunning space.
Exploring further, I was particularly drawn to the Gombe Thotti, or Doll's Pavilion. This museum houses a remarkable collection of dolls from around the world, offering a glimpse into diverse cultures and artistic traditions. While not strictly architectural, it provided a fascinating cultural context for the palace and its inhabitants.
The palace's exterior, particularly during the evening illumination, is truly magical. Thousands of bulbs outline the structure, transforming it into a shimmering spectacle. This, I felt, was a modern interpretation of the kuthuvilakku, the traditional oil lamps used to illuminate temple towers during festivals. While the technology is different, the effect is the same – a breathtaking display of light and shadow that enhances the architectural beauty.
One aspect that particularly resonated with my background in South Indian temple architecture was the use of open courtyards. These courtyards, while smaller than the prakarams found in temples, serve a similar purpose – providing ventilation, natural light, and a sense of tranquility amidst the grandeur. They also offer framed views of different parts of the palace, creating a dynamic visual experience as one moves through the complex.
The Mysore Palace is not just a palace; it's a living museum, a testament to the artistry and vision of its creators. It's a place where architectural styles converge, where history whispers from every corner, and where the grandeur of the past continues to captivate visitors from around the world. As I left the palace grounds, I carried with me not just images of its splendor, but a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of Indian architecture and the unique stories it tells.
Hotgi Road, Solapur, Solapur (413006), Maharashtra, India
The midday sun beat down on Solapur, the heat radiating off the dusty streets as I made my way to the Siddheshwar Temple. Having explored countless sandstone marvels of Rajasthan, I was curious to see how this Hemadpanti style temple, a distinct architectural tradition of Maharashtra, would compare. And I wasn't disappointed. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, stands nestled within a bustling marketplace, its imposing grey basalt structure a stark contrast to the vibrant colours of the surrounding shops. It felt like stepping into an oasis of calm amidst the city's energetic pulse.
The first thing that struck me was the temple's robust, almost fortress-like exterior. Unlike the ornate carvings and delicate filigree work I'm accustomed to seeing in Rajasthani architecture, the Siddheshwar Temple exudes a sense of grounded strength. The walls are thick, the lines clean and geometric, and the overall impression is one of powerful simplicity. The Hemadpanti style, characterized by its use of black basalt stone and intricate interlocking joinery, is evident everywhere. I ran my hand over the smooth, cool stone, marveling at the precision with which each block was fitted together, no mortar visible, a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the era.
Stepping through the main entrance, I found myself in a large open courtyard. A Nandi mandapa, housing the sacred bull Nandi, faces the main shrine. This mandapa, like the rest of the temple, is built entirely of basalt, its sturdy pillars supporting a pyramidal roof. The courtyard itself is paved with stone slabs, worn smooth by centuries of devotees. Despite the midday heat, the air within the temple felt cooler, the thick basalt walls providing a welcome respite from the sun.
The main shrine, dedicated to Siddheshwar (Lord Shiva), is a masterpiece of Hemadpanti architecture. The shikhara, the towering structure above the sanctum sanctorum, is particularly striking. Its layered, pyramidal form, again built without any mortar, rises towards the sky, a beacon of faith amidst the urban sprawl. While simpler than the curvilinear shikharas of North Indian temples, it possesses a unique beauty, its stark geometry softened by the play of light and shadow.
Inside the sanctum, a lingam, the symbolic representation of Lord Shiva, is the focal point of worship. The atmosphere here is hushed and reverent. I watched as devotees offered prayers, their faith palpable in the air. Even as a journalist, accustomed to observing and documenting, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility within the sacred space.
As I explored further, I discovered intricate carvings adorning various parts of the temple. While not as profuse as the ornamentation found in Rajasthani temples, the carvings here are exquisite, depicting deities, mythical creatures, and floral motifs. I noticed a recurring motif of the lotus flower, a symbol of purity and enlightenment, carved into the pillars and ceilings. These subtle details, often overlooked in the grandeur of the overall structure, speak volumes about the artistry and devotion that went into the temple's construction.
Leaving the cool confines of the Siddheshwar Temple and stepping back into the bustling marketplace, I felt a sense of having travelled through time. The temple, a silent witness to centuries of history, stands as a testament to the enduring power of faith and the architectural brilliance of the Hemadpanti tradition. It's a place where the weight of history is palpable, where the past and the present converge, and where the quiet strength of basalt speaks volumes. My experience with the sandstone forts and palaces of Rajasthan provided a valuable lens through which to appreciate the unique beauty and architectural ingenuity of this remarkable temple.