Shreeji Nagar, Mathura, Vrindavan (281121), Uttar Pradesh, India
The scent of sandalwood hung heavy in the air, a fragrant welcome to the Radha Vallabh Haveli in Mathura. Having explored the basalt-carved caves and intricate temples of Maharashtra extensively, I was curious to see how the architectural narrative shifted in this Braj Bhoomi landmark. The haveli, dedicated to the Radha-Vallabh sect of Vaishnavism, didn't disappoint. It whispered stories of devotion, artistry, and a bygone era of opulent patronage.
Unlike the monolithic structures I was accustomed to, the haveli unfolded like a labyrinth. Courtyards, interconnected chambers, and narrow passageways created a sense of intimate discovery. The red sandstone, a stark contrast to the dark hues of Maharashtra's basalt, glowed warmly under the afternoon sun. Intricate carvings adorned every surface – floral motifs, depictions of Krishna’s leelas, and geometric patterns, each narrating a fragment of the sect's rich mythology. It felt as though the very stones were singing hymns to Radha and Krishna.
The main courtyard, the heart of the haveli, was particularly captivating. A raised platform, once used for religious discourses and performances, dominated the space. I could almost hear the echoes of devotional music and the rhythmic clapping of devotees lost in spiritual fervor. The surrounding walls, adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from the Bhagavata Purana, were faded yet retained a captivating vibrancy. The colours, predominantly blues, greens, and ochres, spoke of a time when artistry was an integral part of religious expression.
Climbing the narrow, winding staircases, I reached the upper levels, which offered a panoramic view of the bustling city of Mathura. From this vantage point, the haveli seemed like an oasis of tranquility amidst the urban chaos. The intricate jalis, or lattice screens, allowed for ventilation while maintaining privacy, a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the time. Peering through these screens, I observed the daily life of the city unfolding below – a vibrant tapestry of sounds, colours, and movement.
One of the most striking features of the haveli was its integration with nature. Small, enclosed gardens, or baghs, punctuated the structure, offering pockets of serenity. These spaces, with their flowering plants and trickling fountains, provided a refreshing contrast to the enclosed spaces and served as a reminder of the divine presence in the natural world. I noticed how the architecture seamlessly blended indoor and outdoor spaces, creating a harmonious environment.
While exploring the haveli, I encountered several priests and devotees who shared anecdotes and insights into the history and significance of the site. Their narratives added another layer of understanding, enriching my experience beyond the purely visual. Learning about the daily rituals, the festivals celebrated, and the stories passed down through generations, I felt a deeper connection to the spiritual heart of the haveli.
The Radha Vallabh Haveli is more than just a historical structure; it's a living testament to a vibrant faith and a rich artistic tradition. It's a place where architecture transcends its functional purpose and becomes a medium for storytelling, a canvas for devotion, and a portal to a bygone era. As I left the haveli, the scent of sandalwood still clinging to my clothes, I carried with me not just images of intricate carvings and vibrant frescoes, but also a profound sense of the enduring power of faith and the beauty of human expression. It served as a powerful reminder that even after exploring countless caves and temples, there are always new architectural narratives waiting to be discovered, each with its unique story to tell.
Jyotisar, Kurukshetra, Kurukshetra (136118), Haryana, India
The pale dawn light cast long shadows across the placid tank at Jyotisar Tirth, revealing the ancient site where Lord Krishna is believed to have delivered the Bhagavad Gita to Arjuna. A palpable sense of serenity hung in the air, amplified by the gentle rustling of the sacred fig tree, believed to be a descendant of the very tree under which the divine discourse took place. My camera, a constant companion on my journeys documenting India's heritage, felt almost inadequate to capture the weight of history and spirituality permeating this hallowed ground.
Jyotisar, meaning "the resting place of light," truly lives up to its name. The site is unassuming in its scale, lacking the towering grandeur of some of the temples I've documented. Yet, its power lies in its quiet dignity and the profound significance it holds for millions. The main temple, a relatively modern structure built in marble, houses a striking statue of Lord Krishna and Arjuna in a chariot, capturing the pivotal moment of the Gita's revelation. The intricate carvings on the temple walls depict scenes from the Mahabharata, narrating the epic tale that unfolded on the very fields surrounding the site.
What struck me most, however, was the ancient banyan tree, its gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms. A small enclosure protects its roots, and devotees circumambulate it with reverence, whispering prayers and tying colorful threads to its branches. Standing beneath its canopy, I could almost feel the echoes of the past, the whispers of ancient wisdom carried on the breeze. The tree itself felt like a living testament to the enduring power of faith and the timeless relevance of the Gita's message.
Adjacent to the temple is a raised platform marking the exact spot where Krishna is said to have delivered the sermon. A marble chariot depicting Krishna and Arjuna stands as the centerpiece, and the surrounding area is inscribed with verses from the Bhagavad Gita in various languages. The multilingual inscriptions are a powerful symbol of the Gita's universal appeal, its message transcending geographical and cultural boundaries.
Walking around the site, I noticed the meticulous upkeep of the grounds. The pathways are clean, the gardens well-maintained, and the entire area exudes a sense of peaceful order. This meticulousness, I felt, reflected the deep respect and devotion that the site commands. It wasn't merely a tourist attraction; it was a living sanctuary, a place of pilgrimage where people came to seek solace, guidance, and connection to their spiritual heritage.
The museum located within the complex provided further context to the site's significance. It houses a collection of artifacts and exhibits related to the Mahabharata and the Bhagavad Gita, including ancient manuscripts, paintings, and sculptures. The exhibits offered a deeper understanding of the historical and cultural context of the Gita, enriching my appreciation for the site's profound importance.
As the sun climbed higher, the temple complex began to fill with devotees. The air filled with the chanting of hymns and the fragrance of incense, adding another layer to the sensory experience. Observing the devotees lost in prayer, I was reminded of the power of sacred spaces to connect individuals to something larger than themselves.
Jyotisar Tirth is more than just a temple; it's a portal to the past, a living embodiment of one of the world's most revered scriptures. It's a place where history, spirituality, and natural beauty converge to create an experience that is both deeply moving and profoundly enlightening. As I packed my camera, preparing to depart, I knew that the images I captured would only be a pale reflection of the true essence of Jyotisar – a place where the light of wisdom continues to shine brightly across the ages.
Sisupalgarh, Puri District, Bhubaneswar (752100), Odisha, India
The laterite ramparts of Sisupalgarh rose before me, baked a deep, rusty red under the Odisha sun. Not the imposing, sheer walls of a Rajput fortress, but rather the sprawling, undulating remains of a city fortification, hinting at a life lived within centuries ago. Here, just a few kilometers from the bustling modernity of Bhubaneswar, lay the whispers of ancient Kalinga, a realm steeped in history and architectural ingenuity.
My fingers traced the rough texture of the laterite, a porous rock formed from iron-rich soil. Its use spoke volumes about the builders’ resourcefulness and understanding of the local environment. This wasn't just a defensive structure; it was a testament to sustainable building practices, utilizing readily available materials. The ramparts, though eroded by time, still retained a sense of formidable strength. They stretched in a roughly square shape, enclosing an area of approximately 1.2 square kilometers, a scale that impressed upon me the sheer size of this ancient settlement.
Walking along the top of the ramparts, I could see the clear demarcation of the moat, now dry and overgrown, but once a crucial defensive feature. The strategic placement of gateways, particularly the impressive northern and southern entrances, suggested a well-planned urban layout. These weren't mere openings; they were carefully constructed passages, designed for both defense and ceremonial processions. I could almost picture the chariots rumbling through, the soldiers standing guard, the vibrant life of the city flowing in and out.
Descending into the heart of the fort, I encountered the remnants of what were once bustling streets and residential areas. The foundations of houses, crafted from the same laterite, were still visible, laid out in a grid pattern, indicative of a planned urban settlement. The discovery of artifacts like pottery shards, terracotta figurines, and iron implements during excavations paints a vivid picture of daily life within these walls. It wasn't just a military outpost; it was a thriving urban center, a hub of trade and cultural exchange.
One of the most striking features of Sisupalgarh is its sophisticated water management system. Evidence suggests the presence of elaborate drains and reservoirs, showcasing the advanced engineering skills of the time. The careful planning of water resources, crucial in a region with distinct wet and dry seasons, speaks to the foresight and practicality of the city's planners. It’s a reminder that even in ancient times, urban planning considered the practicalities of daily life, not just defense and grandeur.
The Ashokan rock edicts discovered nearby, though not within the fort itself, add another layer of historical significance to Sisupalgarh. They suggest that the city, then known as Tosali, was a major administrative center under the Mauryan empire. This connection to one of India’s most influential rulers adds a palpable sense of historical weight to the site. Standing amidst these ruins, I felt a tangible connection to the past, a sense of awe at the ingenuity and resilience of those who built and inhabited this ancient city.
Sisupalgarh isn't just a collection of ruins; it's a living testament to the rich tapestry of Indian history. It's a place where the past whispers to the present, offering glimpses into the lives, beliefs, and architectural prowess of a civilization that thrived centuries ago. The site deserves more attention, not just as a historical curiosity, but as a valuable lesson in sustainable urban planning and a reminder of the enduring legacy of ancient India. As I left the fort, the setting sun casting long shadows over the laterite walls, I carried with me a profound sense of wonder and a renewed appreciation for the architectural marvels of ancient India. Sisupalgarh is more than just a fort; it is a time capsule, waiting to be explored and understood.
Solophok, Namchi (737126), South Sikkim, Sikkim, India
The vibrant prayer flags snapping in the Himalayan breeze were my welcome to Solophok Chardham, a surprisingly recent addition to Sikkim’s spiritual landscape. Perched on the Solophok hilltop overlooking Namchi, this complex, completed in 2011, isn’t ancient in the way of many UNESCO sites, but its ambition is palpable. It aims to replicate the revered Char Dham pilgrimage circuit of India – Badrinath, Dwarka, Puri, and Rameshwaram – within a single location, making it accessible to those unable to undertake the arduous original journey.
The centerpiece, and the first structure that caught my eye, is the towering 108-foot statue of Lord Shiva, known here as Siddheshwar. Its sheer scale is breathtaking, gleaming gold against the backdrop of the snow-capped Kanchenjunga range. The statue itself is a marvel of modern engineering, and I learned from a local priest that it was constructed using copper and plated with gold. The detailing on Lord Shiva’s form, from the intricate folds of his garments to the serene expression on his face, is remarkably precise.
Circling the statue, I found myself immersed in the representations of the four Dhams. Each shrine is architecturally distinct, reflecting the style of its original counterpart. The Badrinath replica, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, features the characteristic sloping roof and brightly coloured facade I’d seen in Uttarakhand. Dwarka, dedicated to Lord Krishna, echoed the intricate carvings and sandstone hues of Gujarat’s coastal temples. The Jagannath temple of Puri, with its distinctive pyramidal roof and vibrant murals, transported me back to Odisha. Finally, the Rameshwaram replica, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his Ramalingeswara form, captured the Dravidian architectural style of Tamil Nadu with its towering gopuram.
While the architectural mimicry is impressive, Solophok Chardham isn’t merely a copy-paste project. The complex incorporates elements of Sikkimese Buddhist architecture, creating a unique blend of styles. The prayer wheels lining the pathways, the colourful murals depicting Buddhist deities, and the presence of monks going about their daily rituals, all contribute to a syncretic atmosphere that feels distinctly Sikkimese. This fusion, I felt, was the most compelling aspect of the site. It speaks to the region’s history of religious harmony and the fluidity of faith in the Himalayas.
Beyond the main shrines, the complex offers panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and mountains. I spent a considerable amount of time simply absorbing the scenery, the peace punctuated only by the fluttering prayer flags and the distant chanting from within the temples. There’s a palpable sense of serenity here, a quiet energy that encourages introspection.
One aspect that struck me was the meticulous upkeep of the entire complex. Despite the constant flow of visitors, the grounds were impeccably clean, the gardens well-maintained, and the shrines themselves pristine. This speaks volumes about the reverence with which the site is held by both the local community and the managing authorities.
My visit to Solophok Chardham was more than just ticking off another UNESCO site on my list. It was an immersion in a unique blend of architectural styles, religious traditions, and breathtaking natural beauty. While the complex is relatively new, it carries a weight of spiritual significance, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of faith and devotion that defines the Himalayan region. It’s a testament to the power of human ambition, not just in replicating architectural marvels, but in creating a space that fosters peace, reflection, and a deeper understanding of India’s diverse spiritual heritage. It’s a place I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend to anyone seeking a unique and inspiring travel experience.
Near Rajim Police Station, Gariaband, Rajim (493885), Chhattisgarh, India
The midday sun beat down on Rajim, casting long shadows across the courtyard of the Rajiv Lochan Temple. Dust motes danced in the shafts of light filtering through the intricately carved pillars, illuminating the worn stone floors beneath my feet. Having explored countless forts and palaces of Rajasthan, I’ve developed a keen eye for architectural nuances, and this temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, held a distinct charm, a quiet grandeur different from the Rajputana opulence I was accustomed to.
Rajiv Lochan, meaning “lotus-eyed,” refers to Vishnu, and the temple’s architecture seemed to echo this imagery. The main shikhara, though partially damaged by time and elements, still soared impressively, its curving lines reminiscent of a blooming lotus bud. Unlike the sandstone structures prevalent in Rajasthan, this temple was built primarily of brick, lending it a warm, earthy hue. The brickwork itself was remarkable, showcasing a precision and artistry that spoke volumes about the skill of the ancient builders. Intricate carvings depicting scenes from the epics, celestial beings, and floral motifs adorned the pillars, doorways, and outer walls. While some carvings were weathered, blurring the details, others remained remarkably crisp, allowing me to trace the delicate lines and appreciate the narrative they conveyed.
I circled the temple, absorbing the details. The mandapa, or pillared hall, was particularly striking. Massive, ornately carved pillars supported the roof, creating a sense of both strength and elegance. The play of light and shadow within this space added a mystical quality, transporting me back in time. I could almost hear the echoes of ancient chants and the rustle of silk garments. The pillars, I noticed, were not uniform. Some were circular, others square, and yet others octagonal, each adorned with unique carvings. This variation, rather than appearing haphazard, contributed to the overall aesthetic, creating a sense of dynamic harmony.
Entering the garbhagriha, the sanctum sanctorum, I was struck by the simplicity. The deity, Lord Vishnu in his Rajiv Lochan form, resided within, emanating a palpable sense of serenity. The dimly lit space, the scent of incense, and the hushed whispers of devotees created an atmosphere of reverence. It was a stark contrast to the elaborate carvings and bustling courtyard outside, highlighting the essence of devotion that lay at the heart of this ancient structure.
As I wandered through the temple complex, I noticed several smaller shrines dedicated to other deities, tucked away in corners and alcoves. Each shrine, though smaller in scale, possessed its own unique character and architectural details. This integration of multiple deities within a single complex spoke to the inclusive nature of Hindu worship.
One aspect that particularly intrigued me was the temple’s location on the confluence of three rivers – the Mahanadi, the Pairi, and the Sondur. This confluence, known as Triveni Sangam, is considered sacred in Hinduism, and the temple’s placement here added another layer of significance. I walked down to the riverbank, watching the waters converge, and felt a sense of peace wash over me. The gentle lapping of the waves against the ghats seemed to echo the timeless rhythm of devotion that had permeated this site for centuries.
The Rajiv Lochan Temple is not just a structure of brick and stone; it’s a living testament to the faith, artistry, and cultural heritage of the region. It’s a place where history whispers from every carved surface, where the divine and the earthly converge, and where the seeker can find solace in the quiet embrace of ancient traditions. Leaving the temple, I carried with me not just photographs and notes, but a deeper appreciation for the architectural and spiritual tapestry of India, a tapestry woven with threads of devotion, artistry, and time.
Fort Street, Khammam, Khammam (507001), Telangana, India
The imposing silhouette of Khammam Fort against the Telangana sky held me captive long before I even reached its gates. The laterite stone, baked to a deep, earthy red by centuries of sun, seemed to pulse with stories whispered down through generations. My journey as a heritage photographer has taken me to many magnificent sites across Madhya Pradesh, but Khammam Fort, with its unique blend of architectural styles, held a particular allure.
The fort's strategic location atop a hillock overlooking the city was immediately apparent. Built in 950 AD by the Kakatiya dynasty, it bore witness to the rise and fall of several empires – from the Qutb Shahis to the Mughals and finally, the Asaf Jahis of Hyderabad. This layered history was etched into the very fabric of the structure.
Passing through the imposing main gate, I was struck by the contrast between the rough-hewn exterior and the intricate details within. The massive granite pillars, some intricately carved, others bearing the scars of time and conflict, spoke volumes about the fort's enduring strength. I spent hours exploring the various sections, each revealing a different chapter of the fort's story.
The remnants of the Kakatiya-era architecture were particularly fascinating. The stepped wells, or *bawdis*, were marvels of engineering, showcasing the ingenuity of the ancient builders in water harvesting. The intricate carvings on the pillars and lintels, though weathered, still hinted at the grandeur of the Kakatiya period. I was particularly drawn to the remnants of a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, its sanctum sanctorum now open to the sky, the stone worn smooth by the elements.
The influence of subsequent rulers was also evident. The Qutb Shahi period saw the addition of mosques and palaces, their arched doorways and intricate stucco work a stark contrast to the earlier, more austere Kakatiya style. The Mughal influence was subtle yet discernible in the layout of certain sections, particularly the gardens, which, though now overgrown, still hinted at a formal, structured design.
One of the most captivating aspects of Khammam Fort was its integration with the natural landscape. The fort walls seemed to grow organically from the rocky outcrop, the laterite stone blending seamlessly with the surrounding terrain. From the ramparts, the panoramic view of the city and the surrounding countryside was breathtaking. I could almost imagine the sentinels of old, keeping watch from these very walls, their gaze sweeping across the landscape.
As I moved through the fort's various chambers, I noticed the intricate system of tunnels and secret passages. These subterranean routes, once used for escape or strategic movement during times of siege, now lay silent, their darkness holding secrets untold. Exploring these passages, I felt a palpable sense of history, a connection to the lives lived within these walls.
My lens captured the grandeur of the fort, the intricate details of its architecture, and the breathtaking views from its ramparts. But beyond the visual documentation, I felt a deeper connection to the site. Khammam Fort wasn't just a collection of stones and mortar; it was a living testament to the resilience of human spirit, a repository of stories waiting to be discovered. The echoes of its past resonated within its walls, a reminder of the ebb and flow of empires, the enduring power of human ingenuity, and the beauty that emerges from the confluence of history and nature. Leaving Khammam Fort, I carried with me not just photographs, but a profound sense of awe and a deeper understanding of the rich tapestry of India's heritage.
Dol Mukh, Sivasagar, Sivasagar (785640), Assam, India
The imposing Sivadol, bathed in the soft Assamese sun, rose before me like a terracotta giant. Its sheer scale, even from a distance, was breathtaking. Having documented countless ancient sites across Madhya Pradesh, I thought I was prepared for the grandeur of Ahom architecture, but the Sivadol Temple in Sivasagar surpassed all expectations. The pyramidal structure, unlike anything I’d encountered in my home state, dominated the landscape, a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of the 18th-century Ahom kingdom.
As I approached, the intricate details began to emerge. The burnt-brick surface, weathered by centuries of monsoon rains and sun, held a story in every crack and crevice. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, stands as the tallest Shiva temple in India, a fact that resonated deeply as I circled its base. The sheer verticality, achieved without any visible supporting beams or columns, was a marvel of engineering. The octagonal base, rising in tiers towards the pointed apex, created a sense of dynamic movement, as if the structure itself was striving towards the heavens.
The main entrance, guarded by two massive stone lions, felt like a portal to another time. Stepping inside the dimly lit sanctum, I was struck by the stark contrast between the elaborate exterior and the simple, almost austere interior. There were no ornate carvings or vibrant frescoes, just a palpable sense of sacredness. The air was thick with the scent of incense and the murmur of prayers, a reminder that this was not just an architectural marvel, but a living, breathing place of worship.
I spent hours exploring the temple complex, captivated by the smaller shrines surrounding the main structure. Each shrine, though smaller in scale, echoed the architectural language of the Sivadol, creating a harmonious ensemble. The intricate brickwork, featuring geometric patterns and floral motifs, showcased the skill of the Ahom artisans. I noticed how the bricks, varying subtly in colour and texture, created a visual tapestry that shifted with the changing light. This nuanced use of a single material, without the addition of plaster or paint, spoke volumes about the aesthetic sensibilities of the era.
One of the most striking features of the Sivadol is its integration with the surrounding landscape. The temple stands on a raised platform, overlooking the Sivasagar tank, a large man-made lake. The reflection of the temple in the still waters of the tank created a mesmerizing visual echo, doubling its impact. This deliberate placement, I realized, was not just for aesthetic purposes. The tank, an integral part of the temple complex, served both practical and symbolic functions, providing water for rituals and representing the cosmic ocean surrounding Mount Meru, the abode of the gods.
My lens, accustomed to capturing the sandstone temples of Khajuraho and the intricate carvings of Gwalior, found a new challenge and inspiration in the Sivadol. The play of light and shadow on the textured brick surface, the sheer scale of the structure against the vast Assamese sky, the quiet dignity of the devotees – all these elements combined to create a powerful visual narrative.
As I packed my equipment, preparing to leave, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. The Sivadol was more than just a temple; it was a testament to human ingenuity, a symbol of cultural resilience, and a window into a rich and fascinating history. It was a privilege to witness its grandeur and to capture its essence through my lens, adding another chapter to my ongoing exploration of India’s architectural heritage.
Halebidu, Hassan, Halebidu (573121), Karnataka, India
The midday sun cast long, dramatic shadows across the intricately carved stone walls of the Hoysaleswara Temple in Halebidu, a spectacle that immediately justified its place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Having explored every UNESCO site in India, I can confidently say that this temple holds a unique position, a testament to the artistic prowess of the Hoysala dynasty. It’s not just a temple; it’s a sprawling, open-air museum of sculpted narratives.
My first impression was one of sheer awe. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, isn’t towering in height like some of the South Indian gopurams, but rather spreads horizontally, inviting you to circumambulate and slowly absorb the wealth of detail. Every inch of the outer walls is a canvas, teeming with friezes depicting scenes from the epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as well as depictions of animals, dancers, musicians, and deities. I spent hours tracing the narratives with my fingers, marveling at the skill of the artisans who breathed life into stone centuries ago.
The temple is built of soapstone, a relatively soft stone that allowed for the intricate carvings. This, however, has also made it vulnerable to the ravages of time and weather. Despite some erosion, the level of detail that remains is astonishing. I was particularly captivated by the depictions of elephants – each one unique in its posture and ornamentation. The sheer variety and realism in their portrayal spoke volumes about the keen observation skills of the sculptors.
Inside the temple, the experience shifts. While the exterior is a riot of sculptural detail, the interior spaces are comparatively simpler, creating a sense of tranquility. The two main shrines, dedicated to Hoysaleswara and Shantaleswara (named after King Vishnuvardhana Hoysala and his queen, Shantala Devi), house large lingams. The light filtering through the latticed windows creates a mystical atmosphere, enhancing the spiritual significance of the space.
One of the most striking features of the Hoysaleswara Temple is the star-shaped platform on which it stands. This allows for multiple viewpoints and perspectives of the intricate carvings. I found myself constantly moving around the temple, discovering new details with every change in angle. The play of light and shadow throughout the day further enhances this dynamic experience.
While the temple itself is the main attraction, the surrounding area also holds historical significance. The nearby Kedareshwara Temple, though smaller, exhibits a similar architectural style and is worth a visit. The Archaeological Museum in Halebidu houses a collection of sculptures and artifacts from the Hoysala period, providing valuable context to the artistry witnessed at the temple.
My visit to the Hoysaleswara Temple wasn't just a sightseeing trip; it was an immersive experience. It was a journey back in time, a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Karnataka. The temple stands as a powerful reminder of the artistic heights achieved by the Hoysala dynasty and the enduring power of human creativity. It’s a site that deserves more than a cursory glance; it demands time, patience, and a willingness to lose oneself in the intricate stories etched in stone. For anyone seeking to understand the depth and beauty of Indian art and architecture, the Hoysaleswara Temple is an absolute must-see. It’s a place that will stay etched in my memory long after I’ve left its hallowed grounds.
Surkanda Devi Road, Tehri Garhwal, Dhanaulti (249175), Uttarakhand, India
The crisp mountain air, scented with pine and a hint of woodsmoke, whipped around me as I ascended the final steps to Surkanda Devi Temple. Perched at an altitude of almost 10,000 feet in the Tehri Garhwal district of Uttarakhand, the temple commands a breathtaking panorama of the Himalayan peaks. It's a view that instantly justifies the arduous journey, a blend of winding roads and a steep, albeit scenic, climb. My camera, a constant companion, felt almost inadequate to capture the grandeur of the snow-capped giants against the azure sky.
Surkanda Devi, dedicated to the goddess Sati, holds a profound significance in Hindu mythology. Local legend recounts this spot as the place where Sati's head fell after she self-immolated. This narrative imbues the location with a palpable sense of reverence, a quiet energy that hums beneath the surface of the bustling activity of pilgrims.
The temple itself is relatively small, a stark contrast to the vastness of the landscape it inhabits. Its architecture is a simple yet elegant example of traditional Himalayan temple design. The main shrine, constructed of grey stone, features a sloping slate roof adorned with a golden trident, glinting in the sunlight. Unlike the ornate carvings found in many South Indian temples, the aesthetic here is one of understated beauty, allowing the natural surroundings to take center stage.
I spent hours observing the intricate details. The stonework, though weathered by time and the elements, displayed a remarkable craftsmanship. The mortar, seemingly a simple mixture of lime and sand, had held the structure together for centuries, a testament to the ingenuity of the builders. Small brass bells, tied to the eaves, chimed melodiously in the wind, adding another layer to the sensory experience.
Inside the sanctum sanctorum, photography is prohibited, a rule I respected. However, the memory of the dimly lit space, filled with the fragrance of incense and the murmur of prayers, remains vivid. The atmosphere was thick with devotion, a collective energy that transcended language and background. It was a privilege to witness this intimate expression of faith.
Beyond the main shrine, the temple complex includes several smaller structures and open spaces. I noticed a series of small stone platforms, likely used for rituals. The surrounding walls were adorned with faded murals depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. These weathered paintings, though partially obscured by time, offered a glimpse into the rich artistic traditions of the region. I meticulously documented these fragments of history, hoping to preserve their stories through my lens.
One of the most striking aspects of Surkanda Devi is the seamless integration of the built environment with the natural landscape. The temple seems to grow organically from the mountainside, a harmonious blend of human creation and nature's artistry. The panoramic views from the temple courtyard are simply mesmerizing. The rolling hills, blanketed in dense forests, stretch out as far as the eye can see, punctuated by the towering peaks of the Himalayas.
As the sun began to dip below the horizon, casting long shadows across the valley, I felt a profound sense of peace. Surkanda Devi is more than just a temple; it's a sanctuary, a place where the spiritual and the natural converge. My experience here transcended the purely visual; it was a journey into the heart of the Himalayas, a testament to the enduring power of faith and the breathtaking beauty of the natural world. Leaving the temple, I carried with me not just photographs, but a deeper appreciation for the rich cultural and spiritual heritage of Uttarakhand.
Chanmari West, Kolasib, Kolasib (796081), Mizoram, India
The vibrant green hills of Mizoram cradle many surprises, and for a temple architecture enthusiast like myself, steeped in the Dravidian idiom of South India, the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir in Kolasib was a fascinating anomaly. Perched atop a hill overlooking the town, this temple, dedicated to Vishnu and Lakshmi, presents a unique blend of architectural styles, a testament to the cultural confluence in this northeastern state.
The first thing that struck me was the temple's shikhara. While reminiscent of the Nagara style prevalent in North India, with its curvilinear tower rising towards the heavens, it lacked the intricate carvings and elaborate ornamentation I’m accustomed to seeing in temples like the Kandariya Mahadeva in Khajuraho. Instead, the shikhara here was relatively plain, its smooth sandstone surface punctuated by simple horizontal bands and a modest amalaka crowning the top. This simplicity, however, lent it a certain elegance, allowing the natural beauty of the sandstone to shine through.
The mandapa, or pillared hall, leading to the sanctum sanctorum, displayed a different influence altogether. The pillars, while square in section, were devoid of the intricate sculptures and narrative friezes that adorn South Indian temple pillars. Instead, they were adorned with simple geometric patterns, painted in vibrant hues of red, blue, and yellow, reminiscent of Mizo traditional designs. This unexpected burst of colour against the muted sandstone created a visually arresting contrast.
Inside the garbhagriha, the deities of Lakshmi and Narayan resided, their serene presence radiating a sense of peace. The iconography was familiar, yet subtly different. Lakshmi, usually depicted seated on a lotus, here stood beside Vishnu, a posture more commonly seen in North Indian depictions. This subtle shift in iconography further highlighted the temple's unique blend of regional influences.
The temple's location itself added to its charm. The panoramic view of Kolasib town and the surrounding hills, visible from the temple courtyard, was breathtaking. The lush greenery and the crisp mountain air created a serene atmosphere, conducive to contemplation and reflection. Unlike the bustling temple complexes of South India, the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir offered a sense of quietude, a space for personal communion with the divine.
What intrigued me most was the narrative behind this architectural hybrid. Built in the late 20th century, the temple reflects the migration of people and ideas across India. While the core architectural style is North Indian, the local Mizo artisans have clearly left their mark, incorporating their own artistic traditions into the temple's decorative elements. This fusion of styles is not merely an aesthetic choice; it’s a reflection of the cultural exchange and assimilation that has shaped the region's identity.
The Lakshmi Narayan Mandir is not just a place of worship; it's a living testament to India's diverse cultural tapestry. It challenges preconceived notions of architectural purity and demonstrates how different styles can harmoniously coexist, creating something unique and beautiful. For me, this temple was a powerful reminder that heritage is not static; it's a dynamic process of evolution and adaptation, constantly being shaped by the people and the environment that surround it. My visit to the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir was more than just a sightseeing trip; it was a lesson in architectural syncretism, a testament to the enduring power of cultural exchange. The temple stands as a symbol of unity in diversity, showcasing how different traditions can intertwine to create something truly special.
Hotgi Road, Solapur, Solapur (413006), Maharashtra, India
The midday sun beat down on Solapur, the heat radiating off the dusty streets as I made my way to the Siddheshwar Temple. Having explored countless sandstone marvels of Rajasthan, I was curious to see how this Hemadpanti style temple, a distinct architectural tradition of Maharashtra, would compare. And I wasn't disappointed. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, stands nestled within a bustling marketplace, its imposing grey basalt structure a stark contrast to the vibrant colours of the surrounding shops. It felt like stepping into an oasis of calm amidst the city's energetic pulse.
The first thing that struck me was the temple's robust, almost fortress-like exterior. Unlike the ornate carvings and delicate filigree work I'm accustomed to seeing in Rajasthani architecture, the Siddheshwar Temple exudes a sense of grounded strength. The walls are thick, the lines clean and geometric, and the overall impression is one of powerful simplicity. The Hemadpanti style, characterized by its use of black basalt stone and intricate interlocking joinery, is evident everywhere. I ran my hand over the smooth, cool stone, marveling at the precision with which each block was fitted together, no mortar visible, a testament to the architectural ingenuity of the era.
Stepping through the main entrance, I found myself in a large open courtyard. A Nandi mandapa, housing the sacred bull Nandi, faces the main shrine. This mandapa, like the rest of the temple, is built entirely of basalt, its sturdy pillars supporting a pyramidal roof. The courtyard itself is paved with stone slabs, worn smooth by centuries of devotees. Despite the midday heat, the air within the temple felt cooler, the thick basalt walls providing a welcome respite from the sun.
The main shrine, dedicated to Siddheshwar (Lord Shiva), is a masterpiece of Hemadpanti architecture. The shikhara, the towering structure above the sanctum sanctorum, is particularly striking. Its layered, pyramidal form, again built without any mortar, rises towards the sky, a beacon of faith amidst the urban sprawl. While simpler than the curvilinear shikharas of North Indian temples, it possesses a unique beauty, its stark geometry softened by the play of light and shadow.
Inside the sanctum, a lingam, the symbolic representation of Lord Shiva, is the focal point of worship. The atmosphere here is hushed and reverent. I watched as devotees offered prayers, their faith palpable in the air. Even as a journalist, accustomed to observing and documenting, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility within the sacred space.
As I explored further, I discovered intricate carvings adorning various parts of the temple. While not as profuse as the ornamentation found in Rajasthani temples, the carvings here are exquisite, depicting deities, mythical creatures, and floral motifs. I noticed a recurring motif of the lotus flower, a symbol of purity and enlightenment, carved into the pillars and ceilings. These subtle details, often overlooked in the grandeur of the overall structure, speak volumes about the artistry and devotion that went into the temple's construction.
Leaving the cool confines of the Siddheshwar Temple and stepping back into the bustling marketplace, I felt a sense of having travelled through time. The temple, a silent witness to centuries of history, stands as a testament to the enduring power of faith and the architectural brilliance of the Hemadpanti tradition. It's a place where the weight of history is palpable, where the past and the present converge, and where the quiet strength of basalt speaks volumes. My experience with the sandstone forts and palaces of Rajasthan provided a valuable lens through which to appreciate the unique beauty and architectural ingenuity of this remarkable temple.
Bhedaghat, Jabalpur, Jabalpur (482003), Madhya Pradesh, India
The circular, open-air Chausath Yogini Temple perched atop a hill overlooking Jabalpur presented a striking silhouette against the twilight sky. Reaching it involved a steep climb, the anticipation building with every step. Unlike the ornate, towering temples I've encountered across India, this one possessed a raw, almost primal energy. Built in the 10th century by the Kalachuri dynasty, its circular plan is unique, a testament to the cyclical nature of time and the cosmos.
The temple is dedicated to the sixty-four yoginis, female attendants of the goddess Durga. While many of the original statues are missing or damaged, the remaining figures, carved from sandstone, exude a palpable power. Their diverse iconography, depicting various aspects of the divine feminine, fascinated me. Some held weapons, others were in meditative poses, and some even displayed erotic imagery, a reminder of the yoginis' association with tantric practices. The weathered stone, worn smooth by centuries of wind and rain, added to their mystique.
The circular ambulatory, the pathway encircling the central shrine, offered breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding plains and the Narmada river snaking through the landscape. Walking this path, I felt a sense of connection to the generations of devotees who had circumambulated this sacred space. The rhythmic placement of the yogini niches along the wall created a visual cadence, further enhancing the meditative quality of the experience.
At the heart of the temple lies a small, square shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. This central placement reinforces the concept of Shiva as the supreme deity, with the yoginis acting as his emanations or energies. The contrast between the open, circular ambulatory and the enclosed, square shrine created a compelling architectural dialogue.
What struck me most about the Chausath Yogini Temple was its stark simplicity. Unlike the elaborate carvings and towering gopurams of South Indian temples or the intricate marble work of Rajasthan, this temple relied on its unique form and the powerful presence of the yoginis to create a sense of awe. The absence of excessive ornamentation allowed the natural beauty of the sandstone and the dramatic setting to take center stage.
The experience was further enriched by conversations with the local priest and a few other visitors. They shared stories and legends associated with the temple, adding layers of meaning to the already rich historical and spiritual context. One elderly gentleman pointed out subtle details in the yogini sculptures that I would have otherwise missed, highlighting the regional variations in iconography.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting long shadows across the temple grounds, I felt a profound sense of peace. The Chausath Yogini Temple is not just a collection of stones and statues; it is a living testament to the enduring power of faith and the human quest for spiritual understanding. It stands as a unique example of circular temple architecture in India, a testament to the ingenuity and artistic vision of the Kalachuri dynasty. Having visited every UNESCO site in India, I can confidently say that this temple holds a special place, not just for its architectural significance but also for the palpable spiritual energy that permeates every corner of this ancient site. It's a place that stays with you long after you've descended the hill, a reminder of the rich tapestry of India's cultural and spiritual heritage.