Mortar Temples in Goa

The humid Goan air hung heavy, a stark contrast to the dry Deccan plateau I was accustomed to. Yet, nestled deep within Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary, a slice of Maharashtra's architectural heritage stubbornly clung to its roots. The Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla, though geographically in Goa, whispers tales of the Yadava dynasty, a powerful force that once ruled my home state. Carved from basalt, this 12th-century marvel stands as a testament to their enduring legacy and the skill of their artisans. The approach itself was an adventure. A bumpy, unpaved road led through dense jungle, the air thick with the calls of unseen creatures. The temple, finally emerging from the emerald embrace, felt like a hidden treasure, a secret whispered by the rustling leaves. The Kadamba architecture, so familiar from my explorations of the Yadava temples back in Maharashtra, was immediately recognizable. The shikhara, though slightly eroded by time and the elements, still retained its elegant proportions, a beacon of intricate craftsmanship amidst the untamed wilderness. Stepping inside the dimly lit garbhagriha, I was struck by the palpable sense of history. The black basalt walls, cool to the touch, seemed to absorb and radiate the centuries of devotion that had unfolded within these sacred confines. The linga, the central object of worship, stood proudly, bathed in the soft light filtering through the doorway. Unlike many temples I've visited, this one felt remarkably untouched, almost pristine. The absence of the usual bustling crowds and commercial activity added to the aura of tranquility, allowing for a deeper connection with the space and its history. The intricate carvings adorning the outer walls captivated me. While some panels depicted scenes from the epics, others showcased intricate geometric patterns, a hallmark of the Yadava style. I noticed the distinct absence of figurative sculptures of deities on the outer walls, a feature that sets it apart from many other temples of the period. The Nandi pavilion, though partially ruined, still hinted at its former grandeur. The weathered stone spoke volumes about the temple's resilience, its ability to withstand the relentless march of time and the vagaries of nature. One of the most striking features of the Tambdi Surla temple is its location. Tucked away in this remote valley, it survived the iconoclastic zeal that destroyed many other temples in the region. Its isolation, ironically, became its savior. As I explored the surrounding area, I discovered a small stream gurgling nearby, its waters adding to the sense of serenity. It's easy to see why this spot was chosen – a place of natural beauty, conducive to contemplation and spiritual practice. My exploration of the Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla was more than just a visit; it was a pilgrimage of sorts. It was a powerful reminder of the interconnectedness of history, architecture, and nature. Standing there, amidst the whispering trees and the ancient stones, I felt a deep connection to the artisans who had poured their heart and soul into creating this masterpiece. It reinforced my belief that these ancient structures are not just relics of the past, but living testaments to human ingenuity and devotion, waiting to share their stories with those who take the time to listen. And as a chronicler of Maharashtra's heritage, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for having witnessed this hidden gem, a piece of my home state's history thriving in the heart of Goa.

The humid Goan air, thick with the scent of incense and marigolds, clung to me as I ascended the sweeping laterite steps leading to the Shri Shantadurga Temple in Kavlem. Having spent years immersed in the sandstone grandeur of Rajasthan's forts and palaces, I was curious to see how this Goan temple, dedicated to the Goddess of Peace, would compare. The difference was immediate and striking – a shift from the arid, imposing structures of my home state to a serene, almost ethereal white edifice nestled amidst lush greenery. The temple complex, a sprawling expanse enclosed by high walls, felt like a world apart from the bustling activity just beyond its gates. A large, rectangular water tank, or *pushkarini*, lay before the main temple, its still surface reflecting the temple’s pristine facade. This element, so rare in Rajasthan’s desert landscape, immediately established a sense of tranquility. The temple itself, a harmonious blend of Indo-Portuguese architectural styles, stood as a testament to Goa's rich and layered history. The whitewashed walls, a stark contrast to the vibrant colours I’m accustomed to, exuded a sense of calm purity. The pyramidal roof, tiled in the distinctive terracotta style common in Goa, was crowned with a simple yet elegant golden *kalash*. Stepping inside the main prayer hall, or *sabhamandap*, I was struck by the relative simplicity of the interior. Unlike the ornately carved interiors of Rajasthan's temples, the focus here was on the deity. The silver palanquin of Shri Shantadurga, adorned with fresh flowers, held centre stage. The air was thick with the murmur of prayers and the rhythmic clang of bells, creating an atmosphere of quiet devotion. Intriguingly, the temple's pillars, while lacking the intricate carvings of Rajasthani structures, displayed a unique blend of styles. I noticed subtle European influences in the form of decorative motifs, a testament to the Portuguese presence in Goa. These details, though understated, spoke volumes about the cultural exchange that shaped this region. Moving beyond the main temple, I explored the surrounding complex. The smaller shrines dedicated to other deities, the sprawling gardens, and the old *deepstambha* (lamp tower) all added to the temple's serene atmosphere. The *deepstambha*, in particular, caught my attention. While Rajasthan boasts towering *deepstambhas* adorned with intricate sculptures, this one was more modest in size, yet equally evocative. Its simple, elegant design, illuminated by flickering oil lamps, created a captivating play of light and shadow. One aspect that truly fascinated me was the temple’s location. Unlike many Rajasthani temples perched atop hills or nestled within fortified cities, Shri Shantadurga Temple is situated on a plateau surrounded by verdant rice paddies. This setting, so different from the rugged landscapes I’m familiar with, contributed to the temple’s peaceful aura. The gentle rustling of palm trees and the distant calls of birds replaced the desert winds, creating a symphony of nature that enhanced the spiritual experience. As I descended the steps, leaving the temple complex behind, I couldn't help but reflect on the contrasts I had witnessed. The Shri Shantadurga Temple, with its serene white facade, tranquil setting, and subtle blend of architectural styles, offered a unique perspective on temple architecture and worship. It was a refreshing departure from the grandeur and opulence of Rajasthan's temples, a testament to the diversity and richness of India's cultural tapestry. The experience underscored the fact that spirituality can find expression in myriad forms, each beautiful and profound in its own way.

The ochre walls of Shri Ramnath Temple, nestled amidst the emerald embrace of Bandora's foliage, exuded a tranquility that instantly captivated me. This wasn't the imposing grandeur of some of the larger Goan temples, but a quiet dignity, a whispered history etched into the laterite stone and whitewashed plaster. The temple, dedicated to Lord Rama, felt deeply rooted in the land, a testament to the enduring syncretism of Goan culture. My first impression was one of intimate enclosure. A modest courtyard, paved with uneven stones worn smooth by centuries of footsteps, welcomed me. The main entrance, a relatively unadorned gateway, didn't prepare me for the burst of colour within. The deep red of the main temple structure, contrasted against the white of the surrounding buildings, created a vibrant visual harmony. The architecture, while predominantly influenced by the regional Goan style, hinted at subtle elements borrowed from other traditions. The sloping tiled roof, a hallmark of Goan temple architecture, was present, but the detailing around the windows and doorways showcased a delicate intricacy reminiscent of some of the older temples I've encountered in Karnataka. Stepping inside the main sanctum, I was struck by the palpable sense of devotion. The air, thick with the fragrance of incense and flowers, hummed with a quiet energy. The deity of Lord Ramnath, flanked by Sita and Lakshman, held a serene presence. Unlike the ornate, heavily embellished idols found in some temples, these felt more grounded, more accessible. The simple adornments, the soft lighting, and the intimate scale of the sanctum fostered a sense of personal connection, a direct line to the divine. What truly fascinated me, however, were the intricate carvings that adorned the wooden pillars supporting the mandap, or the covered pavilion. These weren't mere decorative flourishes; they narrated stories. Episodes from the Ramayana unfolded in intricate detail, each panel a miniature masterpiece. The battle scenes were particularly captivating, the dynamism of the figures captured with remarkable skill. I spent a considerable amount of time studying these panels, tracing the narrative flow with my fingers, marveling at the artistry and the devotion that had gone into their creation. The temple complex also houses smaller shrines dedicated to other deities, including Lord Ganesha and Lord Hanuman. Each shrine, while distinct, maintained a stylistic coherence with the main temple. This architectural unity, this seamless blending of different elements, spoke volumes about the community that had built and maintained this sacred space. As I wandered through the courtyard, I noticed a small, almost hidden, well. The priest, noticing my interest, explained that the well was considered sacred and its water used for ritual purposes. This integration of natural elements into the temple complex, this reverence for water as a life-giving force, resonated deeply with me. It reminded me of the ancient Indian architectural principles that emphasized the harmonious coexistence of the built environment and the natural world. Leaving the Shri Ramnath Temple, I carried with me not just images of intricate carvings and vibrant colours, but a sense of having touched a living history. This wasn't just a monument; it was a vibrant hub of faith, a testament to the enduring power of belief, and a beautiful example of how architectural traditions can evolve and adapt while retaining their core essence. The quiet dignity of the temple, its intimate scale, and the palpable devotion within its walls left an indelible mark on my mind, a reminder of the rich tapestry of cultural narratives woven into the fabric of India.