Palace Near Sivasagar

Rang Ghar Sivasagar

The ochre walls of the Rang Ghar rose before me, a two-storied behemoth against the backdrop of the Assamese sky. Here I stood, in the heart of Sivasagar, face-to-face with a relic of Ahom grandeur. Built in the 18th century by King Pramatta Singha, this royal sports pavilion isn't just a structure; it's a testament to a dynasty's passion for games and spectacle. Unlike the fortified palaces I’m accustomed to seeing in Rajasthan or the intricately carved temples of Southern India, the Rang Ghar possesses a unique, almost playful character. The first thing that struck me was its unusual shape, resembling the back of an elephant, or perhaps a giant, slumbering tortoise. The roof, a graceful, sweeping curve, is crowned with two ornamental pavilions, adding a touch of whimsy to the otherwise imposing structure. As I climbed the steep, narrow staircase to the upper level, I imagined the Ahom royalty ascending these very steps, their vibrant silks rustling, anticipation thick in the air. From this vantage point, the entire arena spread out below, a vast expanse where once elephants wrestled, buffaloes fought, and athletes displayed their prowess. I could almost hear the roar of the crowd, the trumpeting of elephants, the excited chatter of the spectators. The architecture itself is a fascinating blend of Ahom tradition and Mughal influences. While the overall form and the use of baked bricks are distinctly Ahom, the arched entrances and the decorative motifs hint at a Mughal influence, a testament to the cultural exchange that characterized this period. The surface of the Rang Ghar, once plastered and painted, now bears the marks of time and neglect. Patches of exposed brickwork and faded remnants of paint offer a glimpse into its vibrant past, like faded memories clinging to the edges of a photograph. I ran my hand over the rough surface of a brick, feeling the weight of history beneath my fingertips. The intricate carvings, though worn, still spoke of the skill and artistry of the Ahom craftsmen. Floral patterns, stylized animals, and geometric designs intertwine, creating a visual tapestry that reflects the rich cultural heritage of the region. These weren't mere decorations; they were symbols, narratives etched into the very fabric of the building. The interior, though largely bare now, still retains echoes of its former glory. I peered into the small chambers that once served as royal viewing boxes, imagining the king and his entourage watching the games unfold below. The play of light and shadow within these spaces created an almost ethereal atmosphere, a stark contrast to the bright sunshine outside. Walking around the perimeter of the Rang Ghar, I noticed the remnants of what appeared to be a moat. This, along with the elevated position of the pavilion, not only provided a clear view of the arena but also served as a defensive measure, a reminder that even in leisure, security was paramount. The Rang Ghar isn't just an architectural marvel; it's a time capsule, a portal to a bygone era. It offers a unique insight into the Ahom dynasty's cultural values, their love for sport, and their sophisticated understanding of architecture. Standing there, amidst the ruins, I felt a profound connection to the past, a sense of awe and wonder at the ingenuity and artistry of those who built this magnificent structure. As I left the Rang Ghar, the setting sun casting long shadows across the grounds, I carried with me not just photographs and notes, but a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of Indian history and the enduring legacy of the Ahom kingdom.