Haveli Near Kolkata

Mullick House Kolkata

The humid Kolkata air hung heavy, a stark contrast to the dry heat I’m accustomed to in Uttar Pradesh. I stood before the imposing façade of Mullick House, a crumbling testament to a bygone era of mercantile opulence. Located on Pathuriaghata Street, this haveli, once the residence of the wealthy Mullick family, whispered stories of indigo, jute, and the ebb and flow of fortune in colonial India. The first thing that struck me was the sheer scale of the structure. Despite its dilapidated state, the grandeur was undeniable. The ornate Corinthian columns, though weathered and stained, still held their heads high, supporting balconies that must have once overflowed with life. The intricate stucco work, depicting floral motifs and mythological figures, bore the scars of time and neglect, yet retained a ghostly elegance. It was a poignant reminder of the ephemeral nature of wealth and power. Stepping through the arched gateway felt like entering a time capsule. The vast courtyard, now overgrown with weeds and littered with debris, once pulsated with the activity of a large joint family. I could almost envision the bustling scenes – children playing, women gossiping in hushed tones, and the patriarch holding court. The remnants of a fountain, choked with dust and leaves, hinted at a past desire for aesthetic refinement. The interior of the haveli was a labyrinth of interconnected rooms, each bearing the marks of its former occupants. Faded frescoes adorned the walls, depicting scenes from the epics, perhaps a reflection of the family's cultural roots. The high ceilings, once adorned with elaborate chandeliers, now revealed peeling paint and exposed beams. The intricate tile work on the floors, though cracked and broken in places, spoke of a time when no expense was spared in the pursuit of beauty. I climbed the grand staircase, its wooden banisters worn smooth by countless hands. The upper floors offered a panoramic view of the surrounding neighbourhood, a chaotic jumble of narrow lanes and crumbling buildings. It was a stark reminder of the changing face of Kolkata, a city grappling with its colonial legacy. As I wandered through the decaying rooms, I couldn't help but draw parallels with the havelis of my own Uttar Pradesh. While the architectural styles differed, the underlying ethos was the same – a celebration of family, tradition, and prosperity. Yet, unlike the meticulously preserved havelis of Lucknow and Varanasi, Mullick House seemed to have been abandoned to the vagaries of time. The neglect was heartbreaking. This wasn't just a building; it was a repository of memories, a tangible link to a significant period in Indian history. The stories embedded within its walls – of trade, migration, and cultural exchange – were in danger of being lost forever. My visit to Mullick House was a bittersweet experience. It was a privilege to witness the remnants of such architectural splendour, but also a sobering reminder of the importance of preservation. As I stepped back onto the bustling streets of Kolkata, I carried with me not just images of crumbling grandeur, but also a renewed appreciation for the fragility of our heritage. The whispers of Mullick House, though fading, deserve to be heard, its stories deserve to be told, and its legacy deserves to be protected. It stands as a potent symbol of a shared past, a past that shapes our present and will continue to influence our future.