Mortar Temples in Assam

The air hung heavy with the scent of incense and damp earth as I stepped onto the grounds of the Basistha Ashram, home to the ancient Basistha Temple. Nestled at the foothills of the Meghalaya plateau, south of the Brahmaputra River, the temple complex felt worlds away from the bustling city of Guwahati. The roar of traffic faded, replaced by the gentle murmur of the Sandhya River, which flows through the ashram, cascading over moss-covered rocks. This wasn't just a temple; it was a sanctuary woven into the very fabric of the landscape. My lens immediately gravitated towards the main temple, dedicated to the sage Basistha. Constructed primarily of stone, it stood as a testament to time and devotion. Unlike the towering, ornate structures I'm accustomed to in Madhya Pradesh, this temple possessed a more intimate, almost humble grandeur. The shikhara, while present, wasn't the dominant feature. Instead, my eye was drawn to the intricate carvings that adorned the stone surfaces. Depictions of deities, mythical creatures, and floral motifs, though weathered by centuries of monsoon rains, still held a remarkable clarity. The style, distinct from the temple architecture I've documented in central India, hinted at influences from both traditional Assamese and possibly even Ahom architectural traditions. I spent hours exploring the complex, my camera a constant companion. The ashram sprawled across a verdant hillside, dotted with smaller shrines, meditation caves, and ancient trees. Each element seemed to harmonize with the natural surroundings, creating a sense of peaceful coexistence. One particular cave, said to be the original dwelling of Sage Basistha, captivated me. The low, dark entrance opened into a surprisingly spacious chamber, cool and quiet, a stark contrast to the humid air outside. Sunlight filtered through a small opening in the ceiling, illuminating a small lingam at the center. The air within the cave was thick with a palpable sense of history and spirituality. The Sandhya River, considered sacred, played a central role in the life of the ashram. Devotees bathed in its waters, offering prayers and performing rituals. I observed a group of women dressed in vibrant Assamese silks, their laughter echoing through the valley as they gathered water. This everyday act, imbued with religious significance, became a powerful visual narrative, showcasing the living connection between the temple and the community. As the day progressed, the light shifted, casting long shadows across the stone carvings. The late afternoon sun painted the temple in a warm, golden hue, revealing textures and details I hadn’t noticed before. I focused my lens on a particularly intricate carving of Lord Vishnu, noticing the subtle variations in the depth of the carving, the way the light played across the stone, creating an almost three-dimensional effect. It was in these quiet moments of observation that I truly appreciated the artistry and skill of the ancient craftsmen. My time at the Basistha Temple was more than just a photographic expedition; it was an immersive experience. It offered a glimpse into a rich cultural tapestry, woven with threads of mythology, spirituality, and architectural ingenuity. While the temples of Madhya Pradesh hold a special place in my heart, the Basistha Temple, with its unique charm and serene atmosphere, has etched its own indelible mark on my photographic journey. It reminded me that the beauty of heritage lies not just in grand monuments, but also in the quiet whispers of history, the sacredness of nature, and the enduring faith of a community.

The Brahmaputra’s milky waters seemed to cradle the small hillock on which the Kedareswara Temple stood, a silent sentinel against the vast Assamese sky. Having spent years documenting the intricate stone carvings of Gujarat’s temples, I was eager to experience this architectural gem, so different from the sun-baked sandstone structures I was accustomed to. The journey from Guwahati, through verdant rice paddies and bustling villages, only heightened my anticipation. The first thing that struck me about Kedareswara was its stark simplicity. Unlike the ornate, almost flamboyant temples of my home state, this Shiva temple, built by the Ahom king Rajeswar Singha in 1752, exuded a quiet dignity. The pyramidal structure, reminiscent of the classic Nagara style prevalent in North India, rose in tiers towards the sky, its brick-and-mortar construction plastered and painted a pristine white. This stark white, against the vibrant green backdrop of the surrounding hills, created a visual harmony that was both striking and serene. Climbing the steep stone steps leading to the main entrance, I noticed the absence of elaborate sculptures that often adorn Gujarati temples. Here, the ornamentation was restrained, almost minimalist. A few stucco figures of deities, weathered by time and the elements, peered out from recessed niches, their features softened, almost blurred, lending them an air of ancient wisdom. The sanctum sanctorum, housing the Shiva lingam, was small and dimly lit, the air thick with the scent of incense and the murmur of prayers. The lingam itself, smooth and dark, seemed to absorb the ambient light, radiating a palpable sense of sacredness. I sat there for a while, absorbing the quiet energy of the space, the centuries of devotion that had imbued these walls with a palpable spirituality. Circumambulating the temple, I observed the subtle details that revealed the temple's unique character. The cornices, though simple, were adorned with delicate floral motifs, a testament to the local artisans' skill. Small, arched windows punctuated the thick walls, allowing slivers of light to penetrate the inner chambers, creating an interplay of light and shadow that added to the mystical atmosphere. What truly captivated me, however, was the syncretism evident in the temple's surroundings. Just a short distance away stood the Hayagriva Madhava Temple, a significant Vaishnavite shrine. This close proximity of Shaivite and Vaishnavite places of worship spoke volumes about the region's rich religious tapestry, a testament to the harmonious coexistence of different faiths. I learned from the local priest that Hajo is considered a pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhists, and Muslims alike, a rare example of interfaith harmony. As I descended the steps, the Brahmaputra shimmering in the afternoon sun, I reflected on the unique beauty of Kedareswara. It wasn't the grandeur or the opulence that moved me, but the quiet dignity, the understated elegance, and the palpable sense of history that permeated every stone, every corner of this ancient shrine. It was a powerful reminder that architectural marvels don't always need to shout to be heard; sometimes, a whisper can be just as profound. The Kedareswara Temple, in its serene simplicity, spoke volumes about the enduring power of faith and the rich cultural heritage of Assam. It was a journey into the heart of India’s spiritual landscape, a journey I won’t soon forget.

The terracotta tiles of the Negheriting Shiva Doul shimmered under the Assamese sun, a warm, earthy hue against the vibrant green backdrop of the surrounding countryside. Located a short distance from Dergaon, this Ahom-era temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, exudes a quiet dignity, a testament to a bygone era of intricate craftsmanship and deep-seated faith. As I stepped onto the grounds, having journeyed across India to experience every UNESCO site firsthand, I felt a palpable sense of history whispering through the air. Unlike the towering stone structures of South India or the elaborately carved temples of the North, the Negheriting Shiva Doul possesses a unique fragility. Constructed primarily of burnt brick, it speaks to a different architectural vocabulary, one that embraces the natural materials of the region. The curved, sloping roof, characteristic of Ahom architecture, rises in tiers, culminating in a pointed finial. This style, reminiscent of the bamboo and thatch constructions that likely predated it, showcases a seamless blend of traditional techniques and evolving aesthetics. The main temple, or Doul, stands on a raised plinth, accessible by a flight of brick steps. The exterior walls, though weathered by time and the elements, still bear traces of intricate ornamentation. Floral motifs, geometric patterns, and depictions of mythical creatures are etched into the terracotta, a testament to the skill of the artisans who painstakingly crafted each detail. I ran my hand over the textured surface, imagining the hands that had molded and fired these very bricks centuries ago. Entering the sanctum sanctorum, I was struck by the simplicity of the space. The air was thick with the scent of incense and the murmur of prayers. While the exterior boasts elaborate decoration, the inner chamber is comparatively austere, focusing attention on the Shiva lingam, the symbolic representation of Lord Shiva. This contrast, I felt, underscored the essence of devotion – a journey from the ornate complexities of the external world to the quiet stillness of inner contemplation. Surrounding the main temple are several smaller shrines, dedicated to various deities. These structures, also built of brick, echo the architectural style of the main Doul, creating a harmonious ensemble. I noticed that many of these smaller shrines were in various states of repair, some showing signs of recent restoration efforts while others bore the deeper scars of time. This ongoing process of preservation, I realized, is a crucial aspect of maintaining the site's historical integrity, a constant dialogue between the past and the present. Beyond the architectural marvels, the Negheriting Shiva Doul is also a vibrant center of community life. During my visit, I witnessed devotees offering prayers, performing rituals, and engaging in lively conversations. The temple grounds buzzed with activity, a testament to the enduring significance of this sacred space in the lives of the local people. I spent some time talking with a few of the devotees, learning about the temple's history and its role in their cultural heritage. Their stories added another layer of richness to my understanding of the site, moving beyond the purely architectural and into the realm of lived experience. Leaving the Negheriting Shiva Doul, I carried with me a deep appreciation for its unique beauty and historical significance. It stands as a powerful reminder of the rich tapestry of Indian heritage, a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of the Ahom civilization. As I continued my journey across India, I knew that the memory of this terracotta temple, shimmering under the Assamese sun, would remain etched in my mind, a poignant symbol of the enduring power of faith and the beauty of cultural preservation.

The air, thick with the scent of incense and marigold garlands, vibrated with a low, resonant hum. It wasn't the chanting of priests, though that was present too, but the deeper, almost metallic thrum of countless bells. I stood at the entrance of the Tilinga Mandir in Tinsukia, Assam, mesmerized. Having explored countless temples across North India, from the grand structures of Rajasthan to the intricate carvings of Himachal, I thought I was prepared. I wasn't. This temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is unlike anything I’ve encountered. Forget towering shikharas or ornate gateways. The Tilinga Mandir’s architecture is almost…organic. It’s a sprawling complex, not planned so much as grown, with structures seemingly sprouting from the earth like sacred fungi. The walls are a patchwork of brick, stone, and concrete, plastered over and painted a vibrant saffron. But it’s the bells that truly define this space. Thousands upon thousands of them, in every conceivable size and shape, drape from every available surface. Tiny tinkling bells, hefty brass gongs, cowbells, ship bells, even bicycle bells – a cacophony of devotion hanging in the humid Assam air. I walked deeper into the complex, the sound of the bells intensifying with each step. Devotees, their faces etched with reverence, tied new bells to the already overflowing structures. Each bell, I learned, represents a prayer, a wish, a plea to the divine. The sheer volume of them, a testament to the faith of generations, was overwhelming. The main shrine, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a relatively small structure at the heart of the complex. Unlike the riot of colour and sound outside, the inner sanctum exuded a quiet serenity. The lingam, bathed in the soft glow of oil lamps, was adorned with fresh flowers and bilva leaves. The air was thick with the scent of sandalwood, a welcome respite from the heady mix of incense and damp earth outside. I spent hours wandering through the labyrinthine corridors, each turn revealing a new cluster of bells, a new shrine, a new story whispered by the wind. One particularly striking structure was a multi-tiered tower entirely covered in bells. It swayed gently in the breeze, creating a mesmerizing symphony of metallic chimes. I noticed small slips of paper tucked between the bells, handwritten prayers and wishes entrusted to the divine. Beyond the main Shiva shrine, I discovered smaller shrines dedicated to other deities – Durga, Ganesh, Hanuman. Each had its own unique character, its own collection of bells, its own devoted following. One shrine, dedicated to the serpent god Naga, was particularly intriguing. It was located in a small, dimly lit chamber, the walls adorned with intricate carvings of snakes. The air here was heavy with the scent of burning camphor, adding to the mystical atmosphere. As I sat on a stone bench, taking in the sights and sounds, I realized that the Tilinga Mandir is more than just a temple. It's a living, breathing testament to the power of faith. It’s a place where the tangible and intangible intertwine, where the mundane transforms into the sacred. The bells, each one a symbol of individual devotion, collectively create a symphony of faith that resonates deep within the soul. Leaving the Tilinga Mandir, the lingering chime of the bells followed me, a reminder of the extraordinary tapestry of faith I had witnessed. It’s a sound, a feeling, an experience that will stay with me long after I’ve left Assam.