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The vibrant vermilion and white of the Mangeshi Temple, nestled amidst the emerald green paddy fields of Ponda, Goa, offers a striking contrast that immediately captivates. As a Maharashtrian who has ...
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Temple

Mangeshi Temple Ponda Goa

The vibrant vermilion and white of the Mangeshi Temple, nestled amidst the emerald green paddy fields of Ponda, Goa, offers a striking contrast that immediately captivates. As a Maharashtrian who has ...

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Mangeshi Village, Ponda, Ponda (403401), Goa, India, Goa
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#Temple
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#Maratha Period
#Goan Temple architecture style, Maratha Temple architecture style, Dravidian architecture style, Nagara architecture style
#Sacred Hindu Temple, Protected by Temple Trust
#Indian Heritage
#Architecture

Overview

The vibrant vermilion and white of the Mangeshi Temple, nestled amidst the emerald green paddy fields of Ponda, Goa, offers a striking contrast that immediately captivates. As a Maharashtrian who has spent years exploring the cave temples of my home state, I was intrigued to see how Goan temple architecture differed, and Mangeshi didn't disappoint. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his incarnation as Mangesh, exudes a unique blend of traditional Goan and South Indian architectural styles.

The first thing that struck me was the impressive seven-story deepstambha (lamp tower) that dominates the courtyard. Unlike the monolithic rock-cut pillars I’m accustomed to seeing in Maharashtra, this one was constructed of laterite stone, a common building material in Goa, and painted a pristine white. Its intricate carvings, however, echoed the detailed artistry found in many Maharashtrian temples. The rhythmic flickering of oil lamps within the deepstambha cast dancing shadows across the courtyard, creating an ethereal ambiance.

Passing through the ornate main gate, I entered the Sabhamandap, or assembly hall. The hall’s pillars, also of laterite, were adorned with intricate carvings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The ceiling, however, was a masterpiece. Unlike the heavy stone ceilings of many ancient temples, this one was crafted from wood, showcasing a remarkable level of craftsmanship. The rich, dark wood contrasted beautifully with the white pillars, creating a visually stunning space. I spent a considerable amount of time admiring the intricate floral patterns and mythological figures carved into the wood.

Beyond the Sabhamandap lies the Garbhagriha, the sanctum sanctorum where the deity resides. Photography is prohibited within this sacred space, but the memory of the serene atmosphere and the palpable sense of devotion is etched in my mind. The air was thick with the fragrance of incense and the rhythmic chanting of Sanskrit mantras added to the spiritual aura. While the deity itself was not visible in its entirety, the glimpse I caught through the silver-plated doorway left a lasting impression.

The temple’s architecture reflects its history. Originally located in Cortalim, the temple was shifted to its present location in Mangeshi in the 16th century to escape Portuguese persecution. This relocation and subsequent renovations have resulted in a fascinating blend of architectural styles. While the core structure retains its traditional Goan elements, later additions, such as the Sabhamandap, display influences from South Indian temple architecture. This fusion of styles is a testament to the temple's resilience and adaptability.

One aspect that sets Mangeshi apart from many Maharashtrian temples is the presence of a prominent water tank within the temple complex. This tank, known as the Pushkarni, is believed to be sacred and is used for ritual ablutions. The calm, reflective surface of the water added a sense of tranquility to the bustling temple environment. I noticed devotees circumambulating the tank, offering prayers, and immersing themselves in its waters, a practice rarely seen in the rock-cut cave temples of Maharashtra.

As I left the Mangeshi Temple, the image of the vibrant vermilion and white structure against the backdrop of lush greenery remained etched in my mind. The temple is not merely a place of worship; it's a living testament to the rich cultural heritage of Goa. It’s a place where history, architecture, and spirituality converge, offering a unique and enriching experience for every visitor. The temple’s ability to adapt and evolve while retaining its core essence is a powerful reminder of the enduring strength of faith and tradition. For anyone seeking a glimpse into the heart of Goan culture and spirituality, the Mangeshi Temple is an absolute must-visit.

Historical Context

Historical Significance

The Mangeshi Temple's genesis is inextricably linked to the tumultuous period of the 16th-century Portuguese Inquisition in Goa, a pivotal moment that reshaped the religious landscape of the region. Faced with imminent persecution and the destruction of their sacred sites in Salcete, the devout Saraswat Brahmins of the Vatsa gotra undertook the arduous and clandestine task of relocating their revered lingam of Lord Mangesh from Kushasthali (Cortalim). This daring act of spiritual preservation, occurring around 1560 CE, saw the deity secretly transported across the border into the then Maratha-controlled territory of Priol, now Mangeshi. This migration underscores the profound resilience and unwavering commitment of the community to safeguard their ancestral kuladevata against external threats, ensuring the continuity of their religious heritage.

Following the deity's relocation, the subsequent establishment and flourishing of the Mangeshi Temple owe significantly to the strategic patronage of the Maratha Empire. In 1739 CE, Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, the grandson of Shivaji Maharaj, formally granted the land for the temple's reconstruction and expansion in Priol, a crucial act during the era of Peshwa Bajirao I. This royal decree provided the necessary political and financial stability, enabling the community to erect the magnificent temple that stands today. The Maratha patronage not only facilitated the physical manifestation of the shrine but also solidified the region of Ponda as a sanctuary for Hindu traditions, contrasting sharply with the policies of the Portuguese territories and thereby influencing the demographic and cultural shifts within Goa during that epoch.

Detailed History

The serene Mangeshi Temple, nestled in the verdant landscape of Mangeshi village in Goa, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Saraswat Brahmins and their intricate dance with history. Its story isn't merely one of bricks and mortar, but of migration, resilience, and the patronage of the Maratha Empire. While its current form finds its roots in the 18th century, the deity’s history stretches back much further, to the ancient village of Kushasthali, now known as Cortalim.

Originally located in Salcete, the temple dedicated to Lord Manguesh, an incarnation of Shiva, thrived for centuries. However, the arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century and their subsequent campaign of religious conversion cast a long shadow over the region's Hindu temples. The Portuguese conquest of Salcete in 1543 marked a turning point. Faced with the threat of forced conversion and the destruction of their sacred spaces, the Saraswat Brahmins made the difficult decision to relocate their revered deity.

Under the cover of darkness, the priests carried the murti of Lord Manguesh across the Zuari River to the more tolerant territory of Ponda, then under the Bijapur Sultanate. This migration, a poignant chapter in Goan history, underscores the lengths to which the community went to preserve their religious and cultural identity. The initial relocation was to a temporary structure in Priol, another village in Ponda.

The temple found its current home in Mangeshi sometime in the mid-16th century. While the exact date remains debated among historians, it is clear that the temple existed in Mangeshi before the Maratha intervention. Initially, it was a modest structure, reflecting the community's limited resources after their displacement. However, the arrival of the Marathas in the late 17th and early 18th centuries heralded a new era for the temple.

The Maratha Empire, under the leadership of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, emerged as a powerful force in the Deccan, challenging the Mughal dominance and providing a much-needed respite for Hindus in regions under oppressive rule. Shivaji's conquest of areas surrounding Goa offered a protective buffer for the temples in Ponda. This period also saw the rise of the Peshwas, who acted as prime ministers for the Maratha Chhatrapatis.

The Peshwas, particularly during the reign of Sawai Madhavrao, took a keen interest in the welfare of the temples in Ponda, including the Mangeshi Temple. Recognizing its significance and the devotion it commanded, the Peshwas extended generous patronage, facilitating its expansion and renovation. The distinctive deepstambha (lamp tower), a hallmark of Goan temple architecture, was erected during this period, likely in the late 18th century, showcasing the Maratha influence. The temple's Sabhamandap (assembly hall) also received significant enhancements, reflecting the growing prosperity under Maratha rule.

The Maratha period, marked by relative peace and stability in the region, allowed the Mangeshi Temple to flourish. It became a vital center of religious and cultural activity for the Saraswat Brahmin community, who, after decades of uncertainty, could finally practice their faith without fear. The temple's architecture, a blend of indigenous Goan styles and subtle Maratha influences, stands as a visual reminder of this historical confluence.

While the Portuguese continued to hold sway over parts of Goa, their influence in Ponda remained limited, thanks to the Maratha presence. This allowed the Mangeshi Temple, along with other temples in the region like the Shanta Durga Temple, to thrive and become symbols of Hindu resilience and the enduring legacy of the Maratha patronage. The temple's history, therefore, is not just a local narrative, but a crucial thread in the larger tapestry of Maratha expansion and their role in shaping the religious landscape of the region. It serves as a powerful reminder of a community's unwavering faith and the patronage that allowed it to not only survive but also flourish.

Construction Period

This magnificent structure was built during the Maratha Period period, representing the architectural excellence of its time.

Architectural Excellence

Architectural Style

Goan Temple architecture style, Maratha Temple architecture style, Dravidian architecture style, Nagara architecture style

Building Techniques

The Mangeshi Temple showcases a pragmatic approach to construction, effectively utilizing locally available materials and incorporating environmental considerations. The laterite stone foundation and walls demonstrate a shrewd understanding of the Goan terrain. Laterite, a porous, iron-rich rock, is readily available and well-suited to the humid climate. Its porosity allows for natural breathability, reducing moisture buildup within the structure and enhancing indoor comfort. Furthermore, laterite's relatively low compressive strength is mitigated by the limited height of the temple and the thick walls, ensuring structural stability. The use of basalt, a harder, denser volcanic rock, likely for specific structural elements or decorative features, complements the laterite. This combination optimizes resource utilization by employing basalt where its higher strength is crucial.

The groundwork likely involved a deep bed of compacted laterite and possibly other locally available aggregates to create a stable base. Given Goa's high water table, the foundation would have required careful consideration of drainage to prevent waterlogging and subsequent structural damage. The sloping tiled roof, a hallmark of Goan architecture, is a direct response to the heavy monsoon rains, facilitating efficient water runoff and preventing leakage. This design element seamlessly integrates environmental factors into the building's structure.

The intricate wooden pillars, likely made from locally sourced hardwoods resistant to termites and decay, support the roof and add an artistic dimension. The use of wood, a renewable resource, further demonstrates an environmentally conscious approach. The copper and brass elements, used for ornamentation and possibly roofing details, are resistant to corrosion in the humid coastal environment, ensuring longevity. The temple's construction demonstrates a sophisticated understanding of material properties and their interaction with the local environment, resulting in a structure that is both aesthetically pleasing and structurally sound. The limited use of mortar, relying more on the interlocking of laterite blocks, further enhances the structure's breathability and adaptability to minor ground movements.

Construction Methods

As a Maharashtrian exploring beyond my borders, Mangeshi Temple's simple elegance struck me. Laterite stone blocks, common in Goa, form the foundation and walls. I observed the typical Goan sloping tiled roof, supported by intricately carved wooden pillars, a blend of practicality and artistry.

Materials and Craftsmanship

पाषाण - Pāshāna (Laterite Stone), कृष्ण पाषाण - Krishna Pāshāna (Basalt), काष्ठ - Kāshtha (Wood), ताम्र - Tāmra (Copper), पीतल - Pītal (Brass)

Architectural Influences

The design shows influences from: Dravidian Architecture, Goan Temple Architecture, Chalukyan Architecture, Kadamba Architecture, Vijayanagara Architecture, Hoysala Architecture, Maratha Temple Architecture

Cultural Significance

Cultural Importance

At present, the Mangeshi Temple functions as a vibrant spiritual nucleus, deeply embedded in the cultural fabric of Goan Hindu society, particularly for the Saraswat Brahmin community. Daily pujas and abhishekas are meticulously performed, maintaining the ancient traditions of devotion to Lord Mangesh, a revered form of Shiva and a prominent kuladevata. The temple's distinctive architectural synthesis, blending Goan, Maratha, and subtle Dravidian and Nagara elements, continues to be a source of aesthetic and spiritual pride, reflecting the syncretic nature of Goan heritage. Devotees regularly visit to offer prayers, seek blessings, and participate in the tranquil rhythms of temple life, affirming its role as a living repository of faith.

Throughout the year, the Mangeshi Temple becomes a focal point for numerous festivals, drawing pilgrims and devotees from across Goa and beyond. Major celebrations include Mahashivratri, Navaratri, and the annual Rathotsava (chariot festival) and Jatra (fair), which are marked by elaborate rituals, devotional music, and community feasts. A particularly striking feature during these festivities is the illumination of the iconic seven-story deepstambha, which, when lit with thousands of oil lamps, transforms the temple complex into a breathtaking spectacle of light and devotion. This practice not only honors the deity but also reinforces the collective identity and shared cultural memory of the communities connected to this sacred site.

Conservation and Preservation

Current Status

Conservation Status: Fair; The Mangeshi Temple, though relocated, retains much of its original Dravidian architecture using laterite, basalt, and wood. The use of more vulnerable materials like wood and copper for decorative elements necessitates ongoing maintenance against humidity and weathering. The continued religious use and active upkeep by the temple trust likely contribute to its relatively stable condition. However, a detailed assessment of the foundation and load-bearing laterite/basalt structure is needed for a more accurate evaluation.

Conservation Efforts

Regular maintenance by temple trust; preservation of architectural elements and spiritual significance; ongoing documentation and conservation; continuous improvement of facilities

Current Threats and Challenges

Mangeshi Temple, with its laterite stone base, faces threats from Goa's humid climate accelerating erosion. The sloping roof, while aesthetically Dravidian, could suffer water damage if maintenance is neglected. Wooden elements are susceptible to termite infestation and decay, while metal components like copper and brass are vulnerable to theft.

Restoration Work

Restoration of the Mangeshi Temple, a prominent Goan temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, has been ongoing for centuries. Early efforts focused on shifting the temple from its original location in Kushasthali (Cortalim) to its present location in Mangeshi during Portuguese rule. Later restorations included the addition of the deepstambha (lamp tower), Sabhamandap (assembly hall), and renovation of the main temple structure, preserving its characteristic Goan Hindu architecture.

Technical Details

Structural System

The Mangeshi Temple utilizes a load-bearing masonry structure, common in traditional Indian architecture. Laterite stone forms the primary structural element for walls and columns, supporting the timber-framed sloping roof. The deep eaves protect the masonry from excessive rain. Horizontal stability is achieved through interconnected walls and the inherent mass of the structure. The foundation likely consists of a stone plinth. While aesthetically ornate, the structural system relies on compression and gravity to transfer loads to the ground. Seismic vulnerability is a concern with this type of construction.

Foundation and Engineering

Mangeshi Temple's laterite stone block foundation utilizes a shallow spread footing system, suitable for the region's stable lateritic soil. The blocks, likely laid directly on compacted earth or a thin layer of river sand, distribute the load of the relatively lightweight superstructure. This simple, yet effective, foundation aligns with traditional Goan construction and the temple's Dravidian architectural style, minimizing ground disturbance and maximizing material utilization. Basalt may be incorporated for added strength in load-bearing areas.

Local Cultural Context

The Mangeshi Temple, nestled in the verdant Goan village of Mangeshi, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Saraswat Brahmin community and their deity, Lord Manguesh, an incarnation of Lord Shiva. While geographically located in Goa, the temple's cultural context is deeply intertwined with Maharashtra, reflecting a fascinating history of migration and adaptation. The deity was originally enshrined in Kushasthali (modern Cortalim) in Salcette taluka, Goa. Facing religious persecution during the Portuguese inquisition of Goa in the 16th century, the deity was shifted to its present location in Mangeshi, then under the Bijapur Sultanate. This relocation marked a crucial moment, solidifying the temple's connection with the broader cultural landscape of the region, particularly with Maharashtra.

The temple's patronage by the Chudasama Rajputs, a dynasty with roots in Gujarat and a significant presence in parts of Maharashtra, further complicates this cultural tapestry. While the Chudasamas held sway over parts of Goa during various periods, their patronage of the Mangeshi Temple reflects a broader trend of Rajput rulers supporting Brahminical institutions across the Deccan plateau. This patronage likely contributed to the temple's architectural development, showcasing a blend of styles that incorporates elements found in temples across Maharashtra and beyond.

The architecture of the Mangeshi Temple, while predominantly Dravidian, exhibits subtle influences that speak to this cross-cultural exchange. The sloping roof, a feature more commonly associated with temples in the coastal Konkan region and parts of Kerala, distinguishes it from the typical gopurams of South Indian temples. The ornate pillars, deep mandapas (halls), and the overall layout, however, retain the core elements of Dravidian architecture, reminiscent of temples found in Maharashtra's southern districts and further south. The garbhagriha, the sanctum sanctorum housing the deity, is the heart of the temple and reflects the sanctity and reverence accorded to Lord Manguesh. The deep red and white colour scheme of the temple, along with the intricate carvings adorning the pillars and ceilings, create a visually striking aesthetic that blends seamlessly with the surrounding natural beauty.

The Mangeshi Temple is not merely a static monument but a vibrant hub of religious and cultural activity deeply integrated into the lives of the local community. The annual jatra (festival) of Lord Manguesh is a major event, drawing devotees from across Goa and neighboring states, including Maharashtra and Karnataka. The festival is a spectacular display of faith and tradition, featuring elaborate processions, music, dance, and theatrical performances. The temple also serves as a focal point for various social and community gatherings, reinforcing its role as a vital cultural institution.

Over time, the Mangeshi Temple has also become a significant attraction for international visitors. Drawn by its architectural beauty, serene atmosphere, and the unique cultural context it represents, tourists from around the world visit the temple to experience a slice of Goan history and spirituality. The temple's accessibility and the availability of information in multiple languages have further facilitated its integration into the global tourism landscape. However, this influx of international visitors has also presented challenges in balancing the preservation of the temple's sanctity and its accessibility to a wider audience. Efforts are being made to educate visitors about the temple's customs and traditions, encouraging respectful behavior and minimizing the impact of tourism on the local community and the environment.

The Mangeshi Temple, therefore, stands as a powerful symbol of cultural resilience and adaptation. Its journey from Kushasthali to Mangeshi, its patronage by the Chudasama Rajputs, and its evolving relationship with both local and international communities reflect a dynamic interplay of historical, religious, and architectural influences. As a travel blogger who has explored the length and breadth of Maharashtra, I can attest to the unique position the Mangeshi Temple occupies, bridging the cultural landscapes of Maharashtra, Goa, and the broader Indian subcontinent. It is a place where history whispers through ancient stones, where faith finds expression in vibrant rituals, and where the echoes of diverse cultures resonate in harmony.

Traditional Knowledge and Practices

The Mangeshi Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his incarnation as Manguesh, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Goan temple architecture, influenced by both Dravidian and local traditions. Its seemingly simple exterior belies a rich history and intricate craftsmanship, particularly evident in its material usage and construction techniques. While laterite stone forms the core structure, its vulnerability to weathering is cleverly mitigated by the sloping roof, a hallmark of Goan architecture designed to withstand the heavy monsoon rains. This roof, traditionally tiled, directs water away from the laterite, preserving the integrity of the walls.

The temple's pillars, often crafted from sturdy local wood like teak or rosewood, showcase a fascinating interplay of architectural styles. While the overall temple structure echoes Dravidian influences, the ornate carvings on these pillars often incorporate elements of local Goan artistry, creating a unique hybrid style. These pillars, besides their aesthetic value, play a crucial structural role, supporting the heavy tiled roof and the mandap (assembly hall). The use of wood, while susceptible to termites and decay, was a pragmatic choice in a region abundant in timber. Preservation techniques, likely involving natural oils and resins, would have been employed to enhance the wood's longevity.

The garbhagriha, the sanctum sanctorum housing the deity, is typically constructed from more durable materials like basalt. This harder stone offers better protection for the sacred idol and is less prone to erosion. The use of different stone types—laterite for the outer structure and basalt for the inner sanctum—demonstrates a sophisticated understanding of material properties and their application in construction.

Beyond the stone and wood, the temple's ornamentation reveals the use of copper and brass, particularly in the kalakalsha (finial) atop the shikhara (tower) and in decorative elements within the temple. Copper, known for its resistance to corrosion, was a preferred choice for exposed elements. The kalakalsha, often intricately designed, serves both a symbolic and practical purpose, acting as a lightning conductor. Brass, an alloy of copper and zinc, was used for smaller decorative items, adding to the temple's visual richness.

The construction techniques employed at Mangeshi Temple, passed down through generations of artisans, likely involved minimal use of mortar. Laterite blocks, precisely cut and shaped, were fitted together with great skill. The joinery in the wooden pillars and roof structure would have relied on traditional carpentry techniques, utilizing interlocking joints and wooden pegs instead of nails. This knowledge of joinery, crucial for structural stability, represents a significant aspect of the region's architectural heritage.

The temple's location in Ponda, a region that became a refuge for Hindus fleeing Portuguese persecution in the 16th century, adds another layer of historical significance. The Mangeshi Temple, along with other temples in the area, represents not just religious devotion but also the resilience and cultural continuity of the Goan Hindu community. The careful preservation and continued use of traditional materials and construction techniques reflect a deep respect for this heritage. The temple stands as a living testament to the ingenuity and artistry of the artisans who built it and the community that continues to cherish it.

Visitor Information

Visiting Hours

Temple: 6:00 AM - 1:00 PM & 4:00 PM - 7:15 PM, Daily.

Entry Fee

Free for all visitors.

Facilities Available

Restrooms, Drinking Water, Shoe Storage, Parking, Accommodation (limited), Small shops selling prasad and religious items, Local restaurants nearby

Historical Timeline

16th Century CE

Shifting of Deities

Due to the Portuguese inquisition in Salcette, the deities were shifted from Cortalim to Mangeshi.

Late 20th Century CE

Further Renovations

Several renovation works were undertaken to maintain and preserve the temple structure.

21st Century CE

Ongoing Maintenance

Regular maintenance and upkeep of the temple continues to preserve its heritage.

1560 CE

Original Construction

The original Mangeshi Temple was built in Kushasthali (presently Cortalim).

1739 CE

Land Grant

The Peshwa granted the village of Mangeshi to the temple.

1763 CE

Renovation under the Peshwas

The temple underwent renovations and expansions during the rule of the Maratha Peshwas.

1818 CE

Lamp Tower Construction

The prominent seven-story deepstambha (lamp tower) was constructed.

1890 CE

Assembly Hall Construction

The Sabhamandap (assembly hall) was built.

1973 CE

Gold Kalash Installation

Golden kalash (finials) were installed atop the main temple tower.

2000s CE

Popularity Increase

The temple's popularity as a tourist destination and pilgrimage site significantly increased.

2025 CE

Inheritage Foundation Archival Capture

Mangeshi Temple Ponda Goa chronology documented and archived by Inheritage Foundation for long-term stewardship and CIDOC/OAI-PMH dissemination.

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Heritage Documentation Team - author

Heritage Documentation Team

Dedicated to documenting and preserving India's architectural heritage through detailed research and documentation.

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Quick Information
Style: Goan Temple architecture style, Maratha Temple architecture style, Dravidian architecture style, Nagara architecture style
Period: Maratha Period
Conservation: Fair; The Mangeshi Temple, though relocated, retains much of its original Dravidian architecture using laterite, basalt, and wood. The use of more vulnerable materials like wood and copper for decorative elements necessitates ongoing maintenance against humidity and weathering. The continued religious use and active upkeep by the temple trust likely contribute to its relatively stable condition. However, a detailed assessment of the foundation and load-bearing laterite/basalt structure is needed for a more accurate evaluation.
#Temple
#Goa
#Maratha Period
#Goan Temple architecture style, Maratha Temple architecture style, Dravidian architecture style, Nagara architecture style
#Sacred Hindu Temple, Protected by Temple Trust
#Indian Heritage
Conservation

Current Efforts

Regular maintenance by temple trust; preservation of architectural elements and spiritual significance; ongoing documentation and conservation; continuous improvement of facilities

Threats

Mangeshi Temple, with its laterite stone base, faces threats from Goa's humid climate accelerating erosion. The sloping roof, while aesthetically Dravidian, could suffer water damage if maintenance is neglected. Wooden elements are susceptible to termite infestation and decay, while metal components like copper and brass are vulnerable to theft.

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